1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Motor not working on a WM-3 (rebranded TPS-L2)

Discussion in 'Tech talk' started by PJ0688, Mar 11, 2017.

  1. PJ0688

    PJ0688 Member

    Messages:
    98
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    Sydney Australia
    Hi guys,
    It could be anything from capacitor to the motor itself. I bought it because I love the look of the thing.

    So the motor start going for a bit and then stopped for some reason, don't really know how to use this AM meter, but the terminals on the motor PCB seem to show the voltage gradually getting lower when the motor stopped working again.

    If that means anything to anyone, let me know. Any help would be great.
    Cheers!
     
  2. bub

    bub Active Member

    Messages:
    259
    Trophy Points:
    43
    Location:
    Singapore
    Lubricate the motor bearings first. I use sewing machine oil. Capacitors should not cause this issue.
     
  3. PJ0688

    PJ0688 Member

    Messages:
    98
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    Sydney Australia
    Well it was turning when starting moving the motor control PCB around, then stopped.
     
  4. bub

    bub Active Member

    Messages:
    259
    Trophy Points:
    43
    Location:
    Singapore
    If it sounds like an intermittant connection (non mechanical) issue:
    Try resoldering the motor connections, and clean the speed control pot RV601 with deoxit or contact cleaner. Note that if you touch the pot you will need to reset the speed with a 3k test tape. You can verify the pot is at fault by gently tapping on it or shorting it to max speed.
     
  5. autoreverser

    autoreverser Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,757
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Europe
  6. PJ0688

    PJ0688 Member

    Messages:
    98
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    Sydney Australia
  7. Boodokhan

    Boodokhan Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,461
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    California
    Wm-3 service manual is almost the same as TPS-L2.
    do a google search and you can find it. I tried to upload it here but its a large file and i guess there is a size limitation on uploading file.
    If you are not able to find it PM me your email address and i will send it to your email as an attachment
     
  8. PJ0688

    PJ0688 Member

    Messages:
    98
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    Sydney Australia
    Thanks dude, will do :thumbsup:
     
  9. PJ0688

    PJ0688 Member

    Messages:
    98
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    Sydney Australia
  10. PJ0688

    PJ0688 Member

    Messages:
    98
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    Sydney Australia
    ok, so I replaced the Motor and belts and it works much better, not perfect mind you. Probably needs a new pinch roller and stop caps in the amp board, but it's actually playing tapes now.
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2017
  11. PJ0688

    PJ0688 Member

    Messages:
    98
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    Sydney Australia
    So I discovered the wow and flutter is due to a an issue is due to bad capacitors, they're also ruining the sound quality. Would any of you be able to give me some soldering advice on how to replace them?
     
  12. Boodokhan

    Boodokhan Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,461
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    California
    How did you recognize this issue?
    Can you please show it with a picture where this faulty capacitor located? is it obvious that the problem comes from this ca? like any leakage?
     
  13. PJ0688

    PJ0688 Member

    Messages:
    98
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    Sydney Australia
    Well I noticed leakage all over the board and when I ran my finger over the terminals the wow and flutter went away, when I run my fingers over the amplifier board the sound quality improved for some reason, it also had a bit of leakage on it. I'll add photos later.
     
  14. bub

    bub Active Member

    Messages:
    259
    Trophy Points:
    43
    Location:
    Singapore
    There's no harm in re-capping, although your symptoms point to contact issues primarily. I would clean the hot line switch with deoxit, it can be major cause for poor level balance or sound quality. Following that, make sure the chassis is properly grounded to the board.
    Capacitor leakage is not the same as leftover residue from early wave soldering techniques. You should show us a picture of the leak, and the cap you ran your finger over. When you try re-capping, use a good desoldering wick or iron, no solder suckers. take pictures and record polarity and values.
     

Share This Page