Hiho Amyone chip in, I'm having problems after a repair and recap. Replacement of capacitors was slow but successful, I think. Desoldered properly, no lifting tracks, polarities observed and checked, replaced and resoldered, tidied up, continuity checked. But... Hit a bit of a wall trying to get the mechanism to engage. (I'm not sure if the click-click-click is present in audio when I keep the button depressed. https://imgur.com/3WNk5Qi I'm not sure if it's my dodgy penwork... https://imgur.com/fShhYlv Or the mechanism being duff! However, the capacitors are within tolerance, yes, the ones that are 38 years old! https://imgur.com/I1UfRHT https://imgur.com/7KVLH6w So, kind Sirs, any ideas what to check for next? Excuse the workspace, it's a kitchen table, the coolest place in the house in which to work! https://imgur.com/r9JRN4o Cheers, too! Greggers
I’ve found with a wm-2 that moving the entire head into position with your screwdriver, push the mechanism up so the head moves, that slide move has a locking piece which hooks on when pushed far enough. It may be too greasy to lock properly?
I think that the button locking levers are dirty or the small lever (which ejects the button if the cassette door is been open while playing) is dirty. Check if that is moving freely
Thanks for the pointers! However...Finally, done! It was a spring that had gone missing, not keeping the mechanism under tension, and therefore not playing. Sergiu, @MagneticBlood was kind enough to point me in the needed direction after seeing a video of the internals - as well as pointing out kindly that I had the belt on the wrong way round! The entire mechanism has been *cleaned with 99% IPA, *replaced the rubbed-off 6/12ths of black markings on the internal gearing for auto-stop...without this the IR-sensor/FG motor won't engage as it's not getting the pulses needed, *switches/pots cleaned/lubed with Servisol 10, et al, *lubricated with appropriate lubes where necessary and advised and previously observed, *recapped the entire electrolytic capacitors, *rebelted with belt from @mihokm , *solder joints reflowed where necessary, *calibrated to 3kHz with two indpendent sourced calibration tapes including one from @mihokm , *tape path demagnetised, *head cleaned, *head aligned azimuth at 8kHz, locked off with L'Oreal red nail varnish, *frequency response checked with white noise from test CD/compared to WM-DD33, WM-D6C, Nakamichi BX300 *checked wow & Flutter with W&Fgui8 - it's close to 1%, which is horrendous! I've got some work to do on that. Quite possibly re-cleaning the tape path and getting the pinch roller spotless, as it's a bit mucky however much I clean it. Or, replace it. Project, this and the DD33 has been around 6 weeks so far. DD33 is finished too, but shining and singing! Got that to within design tolerance. Bestest Greggers
