I did buy a boxed 310 off eBay last week - it'd be great to get it working but it does seem I'm replicating a problem. Well at least I am making progress!
I've been working on 3 of my 5 machines (on is a spares unit - the 327). This is where I am with my working units; Machine 1 - Fully works but doesn't auto reverse at the end of side A (it does for side B) - minor fault - probably mechanical. Machine 2 - Fully works but motor has a mind of its own - will come on randomly. Machine 3 - Fully works but music fizzles out after 30 minutes. Machine 4 - Did work but not the play or stop buttons - then I plugged in a power supply not realising the +/- are different on Aiwa and Sony! I need to find what I blew. I have replaced all caps on all of the above. I have replaced / swapped nearly all chips and transistors etc to try and discover why various other faults present. I have just ordered a few amp chips (BA7762AFS) to see if these account for machine 2 - 4 faults... Just ordered what I need to repair a few damaged solder pads as well!
Hi, I have also found the buttons can be really non conducting, you can test if buttons are bad with the cover off, short circuit with a bit of wire, sometimes it is as simple as that, Autoreverse issues, particularly autoreverse the gets stuck in autoreverse cycling, look at the spring that flips the mechanism over it can become limp(older misshaped, a simple bend back can help And synchronize the mechanism 2 ways only one will work the other keeps cycling You did the right thing testing solenoid actuator to determine if it worked or not, Your sound output, the switch that engages the amplifier if mechanicals are in the required position as I previously mentioned, Can be problematic in fact every component that can switch or connect will need cleaning / testing, Sometimes the contacts have gone green and it will be too late if the corrosion has eaten into it will never function satisfactorily and will need changing This includes all switches and sockets The D.C. input socket actually passes battery power through its internals By default and when you plug a D.C adapter (Aiwa 2v supply plug) The act of plugging it in switches over internally, all these parts can have corrosion, I personally clean everything and it has resulted it improvements with Everything! If you can improve conductivity! If in doubt about any parts ability to pass a signal place a temporary short circuit To establish the effect it has! It is really rewarding when you get it to a point where it all comes together But it is a mission
Thanks Warren, I tried a few things you recommended - cleaning, messing with the mechnaism and managed to the get the autoreverse working properly. The lever which activates the direction change when the tape gets to the end of one side is shown below.
Hey no problems, in your picture look to the top right where the small black wheel is, the brass immediately adjacent to it has some of the mechanicals including aforementioned spring, this area underneath the brass wheel is involved with the auto reverse function, As is the piece you highlighted and the piece you highlighted also does stops starts and auto reverse's The bit I've highlighted controls only auto reversing! It is good to know these things as it can guide you in your learning, We must not assume that we are the first to have tried to repair a player, I have had a player turned up in the post and upon opening it appeared that someone before me had been inside but synchronized everything the wrong way such that it would not function properly but it was a model I had been to school on I knew as it was all there and intact but just needed placing in default positions! So beware otherwise you will be going slightly mad before too long! Which I hope you don't do! Good luck with the mission. Kind regards Warren
I think you're spot on - but I think I got the syncronisation out when I last went into the machine. Today I was manually operating the autoreverse to see how it worked - I think this is what reset it correctly. Just won a HS PX527 on eBay - looks just like the 310 / 510 but comes with an actual remote (one which only does play and stop) - it'll be interesting to see if this works on the 310...
Hey man good find, there is another problem which you might encounter with these chassis type, more or less underneath the big white slipping cutch wheel can be found a spring, (there are a few on these) the spring if not correctly engaged can also cause cycling when attempting to auto reverse! Seen that many times, Also make sure if you have used soldering paste you clean the residue as you would be suprized how easily a signal can travel unintentionally through stuff on the P.C.B. SO ALWAYS KEEP IT CLEAN, IT'S OK I'M NOT SHOUTING AT YOU YOU I JUST CAN'T BE BOTHERED SWITCHING CAPS OFF AGAIN ok all good-good to talk Kind regards Warren Also but finally for now, there are points on these where there is screw which secures the P.C.B. to the Chassis also serves as an Ground connection (negative battery terminal!) Which could become dirty impeding some of the current you know if you have a circuit it will have certain junctions, these can all be considered as potential weak links, if there are 10 such junctions each with a value of 1 ohm that =10ohms enough to make the amp less powerful than designed although here there a lot of room for degredation without actually failing to work (the slow decline in performance) Whereas the plunger solenoid which requires quite a substantial amount of stored energy will be affected more critically if an extra 10 ohms has imposed itself upon the circuit which relies more critically on accuracy! Anyway, this is why I attach such emphasis on cleanliness, and good connections! Because if all those are good it helps narrow the search!
I think someone asked about the remote option on the HS PX310, 327 etc - I can confirm that remote R36 (found on the HS-PX527) works. I wonder what stops the later remotes working? - probably not much - I may have to open one up and look inside. As you can see from the second photo the 527 is completely different from the 310
I now have 4 of these working reliably, 1 where the play/stop buttons don't work and a spares machine...plus a HS-PX510 with remote and mains adapter on it's way... I think I roughly have the hang of getting these going and have a bit of an overview of the mechanics and electronics. What I've found is as follows; 1. All machines require the replacement of all capacitors. 2. The motor control chip (Matsushita AN6612S) can play up - these are still available and I think I would now replace these as a matter of course. 3. The solenoids are reliable, all worked when tested. 4. The play/stop buttons are reliable - all worked when tested. 5. Circuit boards seem robust - not cracks found in any. 6. Other common problems seem to be the volume control soldered joints and headphone socket oxidisation. All of the above are mentioned elsewhere on this forum. I would recommend ChipQuik for the removal of many multi joint components and heated tweezers for caps. I do think these are really great machines, they sound superb, are well built and nicely designed. Though mine have the later aiwa logo - internally (and largerly externally) they are almost identical to the older HS-PX AIWA models. One very good practical feature is the removable battery compartment which takes AAA's - these fit almost flush to the main body. I think I probably need to get rid of a few of these as I only really need one and a spare!
Good job! Just checking in have not done so for a while, noticed the Epilogue! I am posting pictures up Kind regards Shaman32
[/QUOTE] Hi I'm new to the forum and currently restoring a HS-P505 MKII which looks like the identical board! Could you tell me which capacitors you sourced and from where please. I also have the problem with the play and stop not working so will investigate the issue with the board where the solenoid solders. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thankyou in advance.
...it's been a while, but I've just re-enthused myself into repairing the 9 machines I have - 310's, 510's and 327's. I have just resurrected the two HS-PX327's. One is 100% working and I am reminded how great these sound - well worth the effort. The other is 90% with a very annoying problem that in FWD the volume is reduced and the RH side is quieter. I changed the head, the switch which selects which side of the is connected to the amp and also the tiny caps for those channels - makes no difference. I assume that the main caps I changed wouldn’t be the issue as both FWD and REV would be affected - is that right?
