Rechargeable batteries for your boombox, guilt-free decibels!

What batteries to use with your boombox? One of the best options I know, are the Ansmann 10Ah(!) NiMH D-cells. Seriously, these indeed have a true 10Ah capacity.[GALLERY=media, 2127]IMG_7370 by 325addict posted Mar 17, 2024 at 6:02 PM[/GALLERY]

 

No, these are truly D-cells, not some combination of multiple AAs. They are heavy and have a lot of capacity. But I will also experiment with 4X 32650 li-ion as a power source. Most boomboxes will survive 16.8V when they accept 10X D-cell, as a brand new alkaline D-cell has 1.6V, making a total of 16V. This will increase output power, a hike from 12V to roughly 16V will increase power substantially.
EDIT: I just saw that the Sanyo M9994 only takes EIGHT of these D-cells, not 10... that excludes the use of 4X 32650 li-ion, I'd better take no more than 3. You have roughly 10V from 8 D-cells in NiMH chemistry (8X 1.25V) and more than 11V from 3X li-ion, so that's still a more powerful option.

 

Yes, that's what they say. Officially, a NiCd or NiMH cell generates an average of 1.24V so I calculate with 1.25V, 8 of these batteries will generate quite exactly 10 Volts. A Li-ion cell is said to generate either 3.6V or 3.7V, so with 3 cells in series I calculate with 11 Volts.

 

Interesting. Has anyone tried the Amazon D cells ?

As for what I use i have over a dozen of the Lidl "Tronic" D cels. They are only specced for 4000mA but were 1/6th the price of the Ansmanns. Of course like most Middle of Lidl products they were only on sale about 6 weeks a year and I haven't seen them recently. I believe the Tronics are a cuple of smaller cells in a casing. There have been Eneloop D cells like that but they were only ever sold in Japan.

 

i Made my own rechargeable Battery from Vape Batteries, it's a Bit Scruffy but i've had it about a year and it still works. it lasts hours, even longer if i use it on my Crown Sz5100, each cell is 3.7v 1500 mAh

 

Yes I am contemplating the NiMh cells. As a longtime flashlight aficionado over on CandlePowerForums I can attest that one of the best places to read about and learn about battery types is their forum section called Batteries Included.

The problem with NiMh cells in general is that they suffer and degrade and die if they are heavily discharged down to a low voltage repeatedly. And that is easy to do in appliances where there is no real indication of the batteries state of charge. The other problem is that the overwhelming majority on the market are truly low quality and, usually, have inflated false claims as to their capacity.

And it is best to get the more expensive Low Self Discharge (LSD) variety. With lower capacity of around 8000mAh. There used to be a few good brands. Tenergy Centura LSD and Soshine NiMh are two options for example. NiMH D cells? and Rechargeable D-cell batteries - could use some advice please are somewhat new thread over there with some ideas that I just read through. It's like every 3 or 4 years I revisit the idea of getting NiMh D cells again

The classic charger to get used to be the Powerex Maha MH-C808M for charging 8 big D at once.

Using 3 Eneloop AA's in a 3AA --> D adapter is also a good way to go. And that is probably what I will end up doing.

Common devices that destroy NiMh C and D cells are driveway motion sensor alarms, small electric "pest" fences and remote doorbells. People buy these C or D NiMh cells thinking it will solve their alkaline battery cost problems forever. They load up their new expensive cells and forget about them. Until the device stops working, they get their batteries and put them in the (usually cheap junk) charger a few cycles, then notice one battery is dead, others don't hold as much anymore, or the charger can't recharge fully etc., the driveway alarm only lasts a few weeks now etc., then they leave raving angry reviews on Amazon about how these batteries are garbage and a waste of money and are fake.

Go read all the 1 and 2 star reviews. Sad. It's all because NiMh cells can't be used in that type of application where they get hard core drained right down into the dirt of 0.90v repeatedly. And a big boombox could be a device that may wreck the expensive NiMh cells without you even knowing about it. Having a voltage meter in the boombox would at least show what's going on with the voltage so they don't crash on you.

 

I use Tenergy Premiums, they are 10,000 Ah and they charge up to about 1.35V max. A few days later they will drop to about 1.28V. But that's better than 1.2, so I think that's pretty good.

 

I am a flashlight collector also, I have many, many Surefires and many special modified / built ones by FiveMega. That should tell you everything. I know enough from Li-ion and NiMH cells to know exactly this problem. That's why I regularly eyeball the battery meter(!) on my Sanyo M 9994. One time, one of my Uher Report Monitor portable R2R recorders drained these cells to really 0,0V(!) but they survived. They still hold charge after a long time (mostly, NiMH cells that were drained too far develop a horrible self discharge, not these ones!) an they still seem to have the right capacity. I have a decent Ansmann profi 5 charger which takes 4 D-cells at a time. I will buy another 10 of these in a few days... first, my bank account has to recover a bit from the Philips D-8444 I just bought

 

Cool. I bet I read your posts back in the day Small world.

I put together a Mag85 with all FiveMega parts and an AW soft start multimode switch back in the 2009 timeframe. As you know, those old incans are superb for illuminating under dense tree cover on dark rainy nights I used to be a regular on candlepwerforums back then and had threads on some of my mods and builds. I was among the first to take the original "MagLED' drop-in and swap the LED for a SSC P4 emitter. Then, later, for a Cree X Lamp 3000K on a small 10mm copper disc heatsink. Still have them too.

The beauty of that "drop-in" was the ability to keep the Mag stock. And, due to the poor low cost design Maglite implemented with their first (and last) LED drop-in module, it throttles down when it gets warm. Bad, yes, but allows rather huge run time which is actually more important that sheer lumens as a basic rugged emergency light etc., And with upgraded LED's it can improve a lot. But back then just about everyone was falling over themselves for Fenix stuff and the brightest pocket rocket they could get.

EDIT: Ansmann cells say about 60% charge remaining after 28 days on datasheet. For boomboxes that sit and don't get used much... I would rather AA Eneloops (regular) in adapters with their 80% in 1 year claim, with claims for multiple years etc,.

EDIT: I still have 30+ old 2006 date code Eneloops that are doing fine. Even after 3+ years an old 2AA minimag with drop-in is fine and tested 1.24v etc,.

 

Yes, it's a small world... remember THE thread from DM51 about the Surefire M6? With the "integrating tree"? That was all I needed to get me the M6 AND the Fivemega Megalennium. The light the SF M6 should have been from the start... with 3X 18650, AW soft start / 3 level driver etc etc. I now have at least(!) 20 different bulb options for that light... I know EXACTLY what you mean with the superiority of incans over LEDs... that's why 90% of my collection is incan and I modded a lot of Maglites too, mainly with that FM "PR to bi-pin adapter" as a start... only to end with glass lens, metal reflector and WA1274 or WA1166 bulb... most people took the WA1111 of WA1085 (or was it 1185?) but these were TOO overdriven to my taste... as these parts are just swapped, I can easily make it an original Mag later, if I wanted to. What's also fun: take a 3D Mag, put in two 32650 li-ion cells and have a custom brass filler made, so together this combination is just as long as 3 D cells. Then add any 7.2V (6-cell) bulb you like FiveMega made a "2.5D" Maglite to accept just that, without fillers. Needless to say, I bought one of the just two(!) he made.... My latest addition was recently a Foursevens Preon P1 MKIII. Now THAT is finally a good LED-light... development clearly goes on... recently I and a friend of mine having such a large LED flooder went into the woods... just to show him the difference between a good incan and his LED-thing. First: that one. As if you had landed in a black/white world ;-) Then, my FM custom light, with WA1274 and two large li-ion cells in it... and suddenly you could distinguish dark green from dark brown. He was completely surprised. I was not.

Now, the M 9994 just said <KATSJENG!!> and the PLAY button popped up... end of the cassette... I immediately got up and switched it OFF, otherwise... well, you know what could happen to my costly 8 D cells... Most boxes are OFF in TAPE position while not playing a tape, but this one has to be switched off with the main power switch too!

The Ansmann D-cells I have are already from the LSD variant. You can have them sitting around for a full year, then they still hold a lot of the charge you gave them one year earlier. That's what "max e" stands for at Ansmann. You can see it in my picture.

 

I'm not sure I recall that M6 thread, having skipped a lot of Surefire discussions, I was mainly into long run time doomsday lighting etc,. Was intrigued by the Kroma and classic Aviator though. And almost got into the other FiveMega systems but could not justify them due to lack of use. I am always analyzing and weighing capabilities and am looking for unusual characteristics and make judgments based on off the wall factors that most don't look at. As with boomboxes and audio stuff also But I do know the classic "Pumphouse" thread by Phaserburn.

Nice story about the light testing out in the woods. That's what I also loved about candlepowerforums: The great stories and experiences of people. Sub Umbra and his experiences through the Katrina aftermath and so on. I had a lot of PM's with him. A few years back I was over there and learned he had passed away. (One of his top recommendations was the Photon Freedom with covert nose with the Turquoise green LED. Still never got one in that color, but I have half a dozen or so of the other ones. Some with LED upgrades etc.,)

I will tell you a "secret" though. Just between you and me One of the most extraordinary emergency doomsday lights is commonplace on e-bay for cheap. All brass contacts and good gauge copper cable, excellent plastic, made in France by Petzl: the old "Zoom" or "Mega". Most of the Mega's come with the Halogen bulbs too. The original default bulb is high quality and low current draw that sips only 240ma from fresh alkalines. The Mega has the pack that takes 3AA or 3C. The headlamp Zoom takes the old style pack that is about obsolete, so add a 3AA adapter or buy a real all brass contact Petzl one to keep resistance low throughout the circuit. I only got my first one about 5 years ago. Takes E10 threaded bulb. I counted about a dozen LED E10 bulbs available on e-bay and sent for several types, some with very good characteristics etc.,

I suggest it would be prudent to obtain one for the collection. Really cool classic cave light that was very widespread and commonplace once. And is to be seen in a few of those stupid horror type "cave" movies too.

 

I have the original DUO from Petzl... choice of the small OR the halogen bulb. Indeed, all copper IIRC in the battery compartment.

Great news! The Tandberg TCD-3014A just arrived, more on that later in a separate thread, you are the first to know here ;-)

 

The problem with some cheap "intelligent" chargers like the Tronic one I have is that they will reject a cell if they think it is too flat.
If I threw away every cell that had happened with I wouldn't have many left. I have found it is worth having an old fashioned transformer based trickle charger to put a bit of charge into cells when that happens. Half an hour in one of those and the inteligent charger is then happy to do the rest.

 

And cleaning / polishing the contacts of the battery with fine sandpaper reduces the resistance measurement that the charger states etc., some of the better chargers alter the charge characteristics based on resistance of the cell. Make sure to polish the battery contacts and charger contacts often.

I saw your reference to the incoming Tandberg on that other thread Certainly one of the better decks worth having. Assuming it has been recently fully rebuilt and calibrated by a professional tech of course.

 

Whooa! That's a beauty!

 

Znter. That's all I use. Present day they output 1.5 volts with a 2 amp throughput. They work until they are dead. And then you just recharge them. The green ones are the bottom of the line. The blue ones are medium power. The orange ones are the top powered ones. They last the longest. I have made videos in the past showcasing the brand, znter, in the boomboxes is that I play. Either in eBay or AliExpress. They cost about $10 each and you recharge them with either a micro, a USB or USBC for the newer ones and they have a charging indicator that either goes out when they're fully charged or changes from orange to green or something like that to let you know that they're fully charged. These, in my opinion are superior to the nickel cadmium hydride batteries because they have a 1.5 volt capacity output as opposed to 1.2 volts for your other ones