I'm still working on my Mulitboard, three hours (a panel) at a time but I've got a bunch done and I'm about ready to take down a wooden shelf and see if it's a winner.
oh ya i dont grill when it comes to making parts, i commend anyone trying their hand at modeling even if their first results are rough trying to make a working replacement part for the sake of giving people an option with replacements is good work in my book even if its rough (functional = better than nothing in my opinion). same for anyone making cool doodads for displaying or holding stuff etc my first go at modeling was rough too, i probably spent ~2-3 weeks TOTAL just to make 1 accurate part (as i wasnt familiar with modeling, just had some disposable time as a teenager lol). slow to learn, slower to master- you can make some crazy things once you get good at it. although my skill only really extends to copying parts so i think ill stay in my lane lol side note cant wait for the day i can print metal from home. good god lads will we be cooking when that tech drops for the consumer market
They've been talking about metal printing at least since the early 90's. I remember seeing a show on resin printing around the same time, it only took 30 years but resin printing is here now, hopefully metal is around the corner. I've been kind of following the desktop CNC market, it's starting to explode, the Nestworks was looking for $50,000 and got 10.5 million! It wouldn't be hard to build your own boombox or Walkman, either outsource the electronics or design your own and send off to PCBway.
This guy has a cool setup, he even made a pretty cool handle (in his kitchen?) for his bluetooth radio upgrade.
Hello mrX, yes, If I remember correctly, Jay Leno has one that he has used in his shop to make parts for rare cars . Squiggly I agree with you practice makes perfect !! Sincerely Richard
This guy has a great X thread, he works on a ton of high-end tape decks and speakers, check out his 3-D printed molds for speaker surrounds. Unfortunately printing is really slow, my multiboard wall is taking a long time at 3 hours a panel. My wall is 9' and needs 13 panels just for the top but there's a door in the middle. Still it's 3 hours x 13 just for the top. I also have to remove the print to start a new one, with Multiboard Paid Subscription they will give you stacked prints to do multiple panels stack up for overnight printing.
It'd be great if we could print gears etc. I have a Pioneer deck that the auto reverse gear is broken. It only turns the head so wouldnt be part of the tape transport. Ive thought it should be possible, I have a good printer .. but never bothered trying to make it .. deck still just sits on a shelf.
Hello Guys, Here is a gear I designed for a antique radio tuning drive gear I designed from measurements of the original . Sincerely Richard
I'm checking out some X Feeds from Japan, they're very excited with 3D printing for their tape deck repairs, especially with gears. I imagine once you have some CAD time in, it's pretty easy to crank the gears out.
abs is very rigid for printing (overall best for mechanical stuff- without paying a fortune for engineering grade iirc), but yeah its not super accurate coming out a regular ole' filament printer. i guess it depends on the size and application but for walkman parts atleast i would use resin for gears abs-like resin is what i think most are using for mechanical parts, mihkolm was/is experimenting with it for the infamous wm-10 reel gear problem which looks to be going well- https://fixyouraudio.com/product/sony-wm-10-walkman-take-up-reel-gear/ i think a few years ago i was looking at getting nylon resin for printing smaller gears, but i never got around to it. it allegedly is pretty tough and has little surface friction so it sounds perfect for replacement gears in players i have a tendency to overthink small things, but i always figured the bigger layer lines from filament printers might increase wear on the printed part or other gears it interacts with over time. least i dont imagine those uneven edges would be very good on either for longevity sake or performance (again i might be overthinking it though) my thought process is they used plastic for the low friction (*and i guess weight to drive them/cost but thats secondary) between plastic parts- so if they have a surface that isnt totally smooth it might require slightly more torque to spin them and cause some extra wear over time from those edges rubbing into the other parts or the height inaccuracy caused by the means its printed. so say for important parts related to pulling tape or whatnot you could have extra W&F in those cases (but again, thats speculation) you can probably disregard all that for anything thats a super low rpm gear or knob, speaking purely higher rpm gears like say ones that might be at the base of the capstan or motor etc. thats just my thinking, wonder if you guys might have some thoughts as to whether im overthinking this way too much lol
Hello Squiggly, Yes , nylon is what I wanted to try when I get my new printer I will try it ! whats nice is I can send a file to PCB way and they will cast new resin gears . Sincerely Richard
I didn't see any material, you may have to reach out to them via X. I'm guessing Nylon (PA)? https://x.com/noietnxlovelive
I wonder if a quick gentle blast of a flame would take the rough surface away. It’s good to get rid of fine strings. Or a mist of acetone then a quick rinse.
Mine is a different shape and has a fine flex cct cable. Was thinking maybe in two parts to go around the cable somehow … that’s as far as I even thought .. been a could of years now
possibly? i feel like heat would be a little too hard to control and would melt (or warp) too much or other areas on accident, but acetone might work since you can control it a little better safest way would probably be to sand them away but thatd be insanely slow to do for each gear tooth individually if youre doing gears small enough where thats something to be a bit concerned about i would consider investing in a resin printer, theyve gotten even cheaper now than when i got mine with some nice qol features. mars 5 ultra for example (i think my saturn 2 was ~400-500 new a few years back) never hurts to have both as options- filament for larger stuff where resin printing isnt practical for the sake of time or durability and you dont need the fine accuracy, resin for the really small parts where you need accuracy and dont wanna spend the bonkers time itd take to refine a part using a regular printer -resin is sorta a pain to work with in comparison since its a liquid though
Hello Squiggly, I agree with you I plan to have both and yes Resin printers are really come down so has Filament type for my repair business have both is the ticket for now I just have the resin stuff printed for me . At work I have a FlashForge 3D printer with dual print heads . Sincerely Richard
