Awesome, thanks for the extremely fast reply and all the rich information! I have transcribed this into an order of equivalent parts from Digikey. Will report back here with news of our (hopefully) successful repair!
You are very welcome! Good luck, these can be an absolute butt to repair. Some quick tips on this model: When removing the board, you have to heat up the where the gum stick battery contacts connect to the board. If you aren't quick, the contacts will burn through the plastic shell leaving you with a real mess. Plastic is much thinner on this model than others in that area. This did not happen to me, but has in the past on other models... When you remove the old capacitors, focus on really cleaning the traces before placing the new ones on. Remove old solder/corrosion, apply new, wick off new, clean with isopropyl, repeat a few times. If you do it successfully, you should no longer smell dead fish when reheating any part of the board. Reflow parts like headphone jack and volume dial; This helps if you have a cracking sound when twisting headphones or moving volume dial. Don't heat too long, just enough to reflow the joints. They can go cold in these areas. Do not try to reheat much around the tape head or LEDs. The power LED on older Walkmans can blow out easily, and the more you mess around the tape head, the more chances of adding noise into the audio circuit or magnetizing the head. This is more from personal experience... for some reason I've ruined a few tape heads long ago overheating the wires coming from it. Good luck!
Hi there Recaptcha, Do you have the shopping list for the caps you bought from Mouser? I would greatly appreciate it. I have recently acquired a WM-506 White in great need of cap replacements. Unfortunately upon opening the board one cap just fell out, and indeed taken the pads with it, so this will be a fun exercise in find some sort of tracer left to attach to the new cap. Fair to say i don't think i'll be using the twist method! Might be a lot of flux and heat...
I linked a project PDF from mouser on post #20 of this thread. Not sure if a shopping list is different, but all of the parts and quantities are listed in the project doc. Traces that are truly ruined from corrosion are most likely going to come up no matter what method you use, and if they are bad enough to just let loose on their own... that's bad. I've had excessive heat take em off too. Still, twisting on bad traces is going to wreak havoc in comparison, so you might be more successful. Good luck!
I don't think so. It's been awhile since I've fooled with it, but I recall it just kinda struggling when reaching the end of the tape under FF or REW mode.
Great post @Recaptcha Have two 506's and a 505 coming my way, one of the 506's has the remote with it. The 506 with remote comes with a main unit that has looks like it was dragged from the bottom of the ocean so found a single good looking main unit and ditch the other one. These are great looking walkmans and i always wanted to add them to my collection. Since i'm a tech i will look into the remote and if it's possible to clone it or design a new one with alu shell/housing and 3.5mm jack so one could use any headphones. Maybe even make it smaller using smd components and power it with a coin battery....will have to see But can't seem to find any form of a service manul for the 505/506 so will have to reverse engineer the remote, make a schematic from tracing the pcb. I work with KiCad so it then should be possible to make a new pcb from it. The fact that DBB is only available with the remote suggests that the DBB ic is in the remote. See so many single units out there and the 'wireless' thing is what is setting this walkman apart. tbc
