Happy 2021 now I came here for another reason... Is your PC-55 Repaired? Please let all know one way or the other
Would you by any chance have any more details about this repair? Are you sure this photo is from the actual JVC PC 55 screen? Just wondering how the solder could be attached to the LCD given there seems to be some glue rather than a metal surface there?
Nope, it was a long ago, I just checked what I might find, so far only that, over 10 yrs ago: There is an option with a special conductive glue (like for repairing the rear window heating threads on old Mercedes) BUT!!!! The repair price will be about 350 euros, the matrix will be original and each contact on it will be replaced with a conductor. It will work perfectly, but the hassle with the repair is such that now no one will undertake it. I also asked my mates if they might have got something else on that repair.
More from my mates: Restoring cables: The minimum required is a precision soldering station. An appropriate tip. Flux. Low-temperature solder (usually crap with cadmium - a hood is advisable). Cleaner/degreaser. Thin conductors. Good tweezers. Scalpel. UV compound/varnish is not excluded. Microscope. As for conductors (wires) to be used you can check this article as another example, just switch on the translation to English but it's more or less clear looking at pics: https://www.drive2.ru/b/107969/
Amazing, thank you! Just to clarify a couple of things, if you have the answer: - " Low-temperature solder (usually crap with cadmium - a hood is advisable). Cleaner/degreaser." - what is ' crap' ? Is this some type of a mixed solder compound, of which crap is one substance, and cadmium is another? Or does it mean "does not work well with cadmium"? - I imagine the 'hood' is something to suck up the vapour as cadmium is a bit poisonous? - The solder must be used on the board, and not on the LCD terminals, is this correct? I have reviewed the additional site, thanks for that one! There are two pages; they used conductive glue to attach the wires to the LCD terminals. Two brands mentioned: - Kontaktol - the author recommends this one because it takes longer to dry out and isn't too runny. But it's hard to buy this one. - Permatex - used to repair the glass heating threads. one of the commentaries has this video- looks like a similar process:
From what I understood as I am not a tech buddy by all means, Crap here mean sh*t exactly because of cadmium is a bit poisonous, so this sh*t=crap needs a hood to remove vapours.. but maybe another types of solder could be used, without cadmium, I dunno..
