Hi all, I have a D6 with a speed issue. It plays/fast fw/rew very fast and also i can hear the motor run afterwards. It seems the CP602 is the issue. Im fairly handy with repairs and have look at the repair guide by @Deb64 In terms of removing the module is it just a case of desoldering the wires from the PCB and pulling the module out? Also the belt is severely out of round, would this cause these issues? Cheers! Columbo
Hello and welcome to Stereo2go. Firstly, the belt being out of round will not cause the motor to run fast. It will cause low take up reel tension and possibly stop the auto-stop from working. It has stretched and hardened over the years and should be replaced, along with the other rubber parts (pinch roller, flywheel tyre, timer belt and two idlers). The most likely cause of the fast running is failure of the CP602 module. To remove it you will need to de-solder some of the wires on the top of the circuit board, in order to get at the CP602 pins. Before you do this, and during the de-soldering, take plenty of photographs so you have enough information to re-fit the wires afterwards. Don't try and rely on your memory. You will also need to remove the capacitor which is wired between pins 1 and 4 on CP602. When you de-solder the pins of CP602, make sure you remove all the solder and that the pins are free before you try and remove the module, so as to avoid damaging the PCB tracks. I normally use desoldering braid for this. Don't try and force anything. While repairing CP602, I would also replace C607, the tantalum 0.15uF/35V capacitor as this can sometimes fail and cause fast running when first powered up. This would also be a good time to replace the other potted modules (mute, EQ switching modules and CP601 FG amplifier) as the potting will have deteriorated in the same way that the potting on CP602 has.
Thanks @Deb64 really appreciate the quick reply! I recently lost my job due to illness so normally i would get this repaired by a pro but unfortunately funds don't allow for that at present. Could you provide a link where i could buy that tantalum 0.15uF/35V capacitor from please? Potted means the PCB's encased in the black sleeves right? Where can i buy the mute, EQ switching modules and CP601 FG amplifier from please and are these easy to replace? Million thanks... Columbo
Sorry to hear about your loss of job @columbo . I hope your health improves soon. The potted modules are the ones encased in black resin. I have replacements for the mute, EQ and CP601 modules available on Ebay (Scribbler_92). Unfortunately I cannot make up replacements for the CP602 as it includes the CX20024 chip which is impossible to obtain on its own. I don't have a link for a supplier for the 0.15uF/35V tant but you should be able to get one from a good electronics supplier. There are quite a few suppliers on Ebay who can supply small quantities of capacitors .
Thank you @Deb64 I was diagnosed with severe hypotension. It literally has ruined my life. Reluctantly now on medication but still my readings are high. I hope not as high as the wow and flutter on this deck eventually! I have to laugh because otherwise what's the point... I will look up those modules and the cap and start methodically. Thankyou for your kind words and help
There is no mention of the physical size in the listing so I would give that one a miss, since there isn't much space inside the walkman. You would be better off with a tantalum bead, like the original one.
Hi @Deb64 i have looked on eBay but can't find anything ☹️ Do you have a link to the right one needed please?
I hope that the wow and flutter on your D6 will be very low eventually. It looks as if your best bet is Farnell. https://uk.farnell.com/kyocera-avx/tap154k035scs/cap-0-15uf-35v-tant-radial/dp/4144866 Note that there is a delivery charge of £8.99 on orders under £40.00
Hi @Deb64 thank you for that... I placed an order from here earlier on, but think i got ripped off! https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/kemet/T350A154K035AT/818392 Once i get everything i will make a start. Not sure what to expect but wish me luck and i will try to post pictures as i go...
Some of those Kemet capacitors are expensive. Also, I think Digikey ship items over from the States so the shipping is more expensive than ordering locally. I often order from Mouser who ship from the States. They are good if you order a lot of stuff and qualify for free shipping but it would be very expensive if ordering single items. Good luck.
Hi @Deb64 hope you are well. Just a quick question re the modules you sell. Do they alter the original Sony sound signature in any way? Also if they are ok are they still worth replacing anyway? Many thanks
No they don't alter the sound signature. If they seem OK now, they probably will fail eventually. They seem to start going bad after about 30 - 35 years and your D6 is between 41 and 43 years old.
Hi @Deb64 how are you? I'm going to start by replacing the tantalum capacitor. Does it have a polarity? Many thanks
My first error ☹️ Just noticed this red wire disconnected. I did not take a picture of this area unfortunately. Any idea where this solders on to please?
I'm going to be brutally honest with you. It is clear from the questions you are asking that you don't have much experience of repairing or working on electronic equipment. The WM-D6 is not a suitable repair project for a beginner. Soldering the surface mount components on the CP602 module really isn't a job for a novice. I suggest that your best approach would be to put the D6 to one side until your circumstances change and you are able to get it repaired by an experienced technician. In the meantime you could spend your spare time learning about electronics, and buying some beginners kits to practise soldering and learn how basic circuits work. Maybe buy a very basic type walkman to hone your skills on first. If you do decide to buy a walkman, make sure that you can get hold of a service manual for it first. There are also lots of very good electronics and repair tutorial videos on Youtube. I'm sorry if this is not the answer you were hoping for but I don't think I would be doing you any favours by encouraging you to go any further with this project. I cannot keep answering basic questions on this thread and, if I were to attempt to do so, I would be leading you down a very messy rabbit hole. In answer to your earlier questions: Yes, tantalum bead caps are polarised and must be fitted the correct way round. I have attached a photo of a D6 meter PCB and layout diagram from the service manual. If you don't have a service manual, you should download one before working on any walkman.
Hi Deb you are right. But i think i can manage it. Apologies if my questions come across as amateur but i have not worked on walkmans before so just wanted to be sure before i delve deep. But also there is a sense of satisfaction accomplishing something yourself. Everyone has to start somewhere, right. Apologies again for upsetting anyone with my questions.
I don't think you have upset anyone but I am getting a bit worried that you may be getting in over your head. You can soon get into problems when the little washers and unobtanium springs start flying around the room. Believe me, these things have a propensity for flight that the likes of Boeing and Airbus could only ever dream about. The D6 is a fairly complicated walkman and probably not the best one for a beginner to work on. That said, if you really want to do it, firstly, get yourself a service manual. Take plenty of time and don't try to rush any job. Take lots of photographs and make lots of notes. And good luck!
Thanks @Deb64 i know you are trying to help and giving the best advice possible given the circumstances. I'm going to give it a go. Will keep you posted on any progress I make. Not been feeling too good last few days so not sure when it will be...
