Given how much interest there is in this particular walkman (after all it's the most feature rich walkman that exists out there), I decided to create this thread in order to make buyer's decision easier and more informed. In regard to prices, I would only state one thing: the more patient you are, the less you are going to pay. The second aspect is fully serviced units are to be preffered, as these DO need a service, despite the fact that most of them are in working condition. The other option is to buy a cheaper unit and send it for repair (I and a couple of other forum members do repairs). Problems that have to be adressed: 1. Old rubber - tires, belts and capstan ring become hardened over time. The most obvious sign is the walkman is very noisy or even has a periodic "click" (which comes from a dent in the capstan ring). Other signs can be no auto-stop action, low takeup torque (caused by slipping idler), low FF/REW torque, etc. It's the first aspect that asbolutely MUST be adressed. 2. Mechanism lubrication - all the rotating parts, including the auto-stop mechanism should be cleaned and re-lubricated. The rule of thumb here is everything that rotates does need a relubrication. This will take extra effort to do (unlike just replacing the rubber), but it's a MUST. 3. Motor position needs to be adjusted - there is play on the motor mounting screws, so adjustements can be made. The motor should be perfectly perpendicular tot he flywheel, not at an angle. It's something that can be easily overseen, but it's very important for motor/rubber longevity and low wow&flutter. 4. Motor spindle may need polish - when the walkman has been used with old rubber for a long time, the spindle is also affected and needs a polish to obtain the nominal wow&flutter value. 5. Motor needs lubrication - The front bearing of the motor should be lubricated each time a service is done. The back one is very hard to impossible to lubricate without disassemblying the motor. 6. Pinch rollers are usually cracked on these and need replacement. If roller has cracks, indentation marks or glaze it should be replaced. Proper replacement implies a complete removal of the outer casing, that's why most people won't do it, despite it being necessary. 7. Muting and EQ potted modules do fail - although many newer D6Cs will have no symptoms in this regard, depotting or replacement is recommended for avoiding future problems. Typical symptoms of muting module is distorsion on audio that can come and go intermittently. Typical symptom of EQ module failure is muffled sound on playback (PB EQ fail), like with the EQ button set on NORMAL, it will sound like it is set on TYPE II. Same happens on recording if REC EQ fails. This failures also come and go intermittently. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Muting-Mod...-D6-WM-D6C-Replaces-1-464-177-00/263851487685 https://www.ebay.com/itm/EQ-Switchi...-D6-WM-D6C-Replaces-1-464-176-00/263537248339 8. On WM-D6, the potted FG amplifier has similar problems and will need depotting & repair or replacement. Part can be purchased here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/264075907543 9. On WM-D6, servo potted module will also need to be depotted and some transistors replaced in some cases. Details here: https://www.stereo2go.com/forums/th...fast-repair-of-cp602-servo-circuit-unit.1853/ 10. CX20084 ICs do fail if unit is powered with reverse polarity or higher voltage. Genuine ICs are about 50$/pcs or more, so keep this in mind if buying a defective unit to repair yourself. Details here: https://stereo2go.com/forums/threads/sony-d6c-speed-chip.7795/#post-58668 and here: https://stereo2go.com/forums/thread...4-speed-chip-for-d6c-walkman.7794/#post-58797 11. Dolby levels are set wrong from the factory on these devices - Dolby levels adjustment will be needed for proper Dolby decoding; note that Dolby C is especially sensitive about Dolby levels. Low levels usually have the symptom of muffled sound on Dolby B and depending on adjustment can cause either muffled sound or breathing (noise modulation) artefacts on Dolby C. 12. Record levels and bias also need adjustment, as they are related to the wrong playback levels and correct recording (especially made with Dolby) will only be obtained with a calibrated unit. 13. Servo also needs adjustment - an adjustment needs to be done with PLL disconnected (3090Hz) and it must be reconnected after. Failing to do this adjustment can cause increased wow&flutter.
Given the list is quite large as you can see, it is very important that when you buy such a device, you ask for what was done if you buy it serviced. Most sellers will not state or will make very vague statements. That of course does not mean the service isn't of good quality, but can imply for example Dolby levels, rec levels and bias were not adjusted. And I'm confident when I say most of the time these won't be adjusted. If you don't intend to use Dolby, it doesn't matter. On the other hand, doing the adjustments is not that complicated and only requires a calibration cassette and a TrueRMS multimeter (which most technicians should have anyway). However, given the Dolby C functionality, I would assume most will want to at least give it a try. And without proper calibration, the results will be very bad and you'll conclude Dolby NR technology is junk (which is not the case). If you want to use recording functionality, the calibration is also a must and it's not that hard to do in reality: it requires a function generator or a digital audio player/computer to generate some test tones, a blank cassette and a TrueRMS multimeter. Below, I will give you an example of an ebay conversation where I asked questions about a D6C listing. Note that the description of the item was completely missing any detail. I don't agree with the fact that levels not being adjusted is no big deal. If those were done correctly from the factory, then I would agree that doing an adjustment will only bring a good or very good to perfect. You should ask questions similar to what I have asked. An answer like this is honest and correct, although the seller could have listed the details in the description (not what wasn't done, but what was done). CONCLUSIONS: - a serviced unit is to be preffered; - a full service including levels adjustement is to be preffered; one that has just new rubber should cost less than a fully serviced unit (this is much better than no service); - if you're buying with the intention to send it for repair, explain the seller the typical problems and ask for a discount (most sellers are not aware of these issues); - be patient and look for alternatives, as many of these devices don't sell as quickly as it would seem; exception are those sold as auction which will sell once there's at least one bid and the reserve price has been met;
I always loved dolby c but in all honesty i don't see the point as 99% of tapes were only dolby b, now i hardly use tapes any more, they are just to much hassle these days imho....as for trusting people on ebay i don't 50%of it is normally junk and goes out for the rubbish I'm afraid
It is true that 99% of the pre-recorded tapes are Dolby B or no Dolby (all newer/new ones except Red Manor Records are no Dolby). If one only listens to pre-recorded tapes, then obviously Dolby C isn't going to be necessary. But then, is a D6C necessary to listen to those tapes ? My opinion is no, of course others are free to have different opinions. There are cheaper and smaller alternatives that have very good sound quality for playback only. And then, without a calibration, even Dolby B isn't going to work perfectly. People are free to do what they want, I'm just stating my personal experience in regard to servicing those devices which I consider relevant to others. Dolby C is useful if you want to record your own tapes, either on the device itslef or on a better deck. From my point of view, this is one of the reasons one would want a D6C in the first place: to play and eventually record Dolby B-C encoded tapes. Then I believe nobody wants a noisy device, especially for the price. So one must keep in mind device will be noisy if it's sold as working, not as refurbished (and hence has old rubber in it). If you see a listing with higher price than usual and is listed as "Used", consider asking the seller if it is serviced or not. I have seen listings where sellers do not list devices as refurbished even when they are, so keep that in mind. As for personal preference, I love Dolby C as well and I use it on some TYPE I tapes that I recorded myself. I wouldn't consider it "necessary", but for that vintage experience and to see how good a tape can really be it's to be at least tried. Others don't like Dolby and love tape hiss (I like it but only to some degree) and that's ok as well. This thread is not an argument in favour of Dolby or no Dolby, just stating technical details about what needs to be done for it to work as it should.
Thank you so much Valentin for this detailed info! Not long ago I found a nice D6C online and decided to pull the trigger. I got lucky because I wasn't aware of all these issues yet I got a really nice sounding unit. The best thing is that I bought it right before the prices went up like crazy.
I'm glad you found one that is working good and you paid a decent price on it. In regard to prices, it depends how patient you are. When you are patient enough, you will always find one at a good price and that applies to all vintage audio equipment, unless it's something extremely unique and there are only a handful of pieces left in the entire world (not the case with D6C by any means). Prices will remain to be speculative for this particular unit, because it's very likely in one of the top 3 most desirable walkmans. In my opinion they are in this order: 1. SONY WM-DD9 (it's the most desirable and the most expensive walkman); 2. SONY WM-DD100 (a.k.a. BoodoKhan); 3. SONY WM-D6C (the earliest ones with parabollic head are the most desirable by far); So given this, sellers will alway try to sell at the maximum price possible, pretending the unit is like new, has never been used, works perfectly etc. People have to keep in mind the vast majority of D6Cs have never been serviced. This does not mean they are not going to work, but there will be a couple of potential problems like: - device is noisy due to old rubber that has gone hard; wow&flutter can also become a problem when motor spindle starts to slip on the rubber ring; - FF/REW will not work due to the lever being stuck (old dried grease); - low takeup torque because of old rubber in the takeup idler tire; - the Dolby will not work correctly in most cases, as calibration tapes used at the factory were incorrectly recorded; symptom: Dolby encoded tapes will sound muffled (people typically attribute this to the technology itself being dodgy, but it's not the case); - recording with Dolby will also not work correctly, rendering tapes that sound muffled; even when recording without Dolby, the bias may require adjustment for proper treble response; It is also to be kept in mind, sellers in Japan will tend to sell at the highest prices, because they have a lot more devices for sale (as they were made in Japan) than the rest of the world. Many own businesess that sell vintage equipment, having thousands of items in stock, so they are not in a hurry and are not willing to give any discounts. But neither should you be in a hurry as a buyer !
Hi - just picked up this thread about the WM-D6C. I bought a unit which looks immaculate and is working but hasn't been serviced - any recommendations on who can offer a proper service, I'm in the UK but happy to pay for shipping outside the UK for a specialist service? Many thanks
I confirm, my D6C with the early pointy head is in great shape after a short international trip to Valentin.
