capital.g - 2007-07-08 00:13
beautiful work -- just about how much would you charge to make various knobs for members here.
as we might be more encouraged to buy less complete boxes , if we knew that the missing parts could be made --- thanks
that is completely off the chart. I'm interested to seeing the plated replica against the original.
What is the cost for something like that? I have a few conion knobs I'd like to have replated or completely replaced.
Also, what would you charge me to make a complete set of chromed knobs for my M90? Can you do the little knobs for the tape deck also?
Ha, Cap G. Nice nice work! It's a great looking box, but wouldn't look AS cool without the fab'd knobs. OK, now that would be a great moniker for you: Fab Knob
I'll do your corporate identity, we'll make millions and millions selling knobs on S2G!!!EPAY!!!YaHOOEE!! HAHAHAHAHAHAHAH!!!!! WE'LL RULE THE WORLD, THOUSANDS WILL STAND IN LINE FOR YOUR KNOBS!!
Wow, this could be HUGE!
Besides Kitt, here's you're first customer, Blasterpunk. I'm sure others have posted in need of knobs.
Blasterpunk need Jumbo Knob Eventually, we'll need a storefront
quote:
I'm glad we have Kitt and Cap G for our M-90's!
quote:
Originally posted by redbenjoe:
beautiful work -- just about how much would you charge to make various knobs for members here.
as we might be more encouraged to buy less complete boxes , if we knew that the missing parts could be made --- thanks
I would charge shipping – real shipping - and maybe a couple of dollars to replace the resins and casting materials. Listen, it is not my intention on making a penny on anybody. Botton line is if you have a missing knob or anything else that stops you from having a complete box and you can not find a replacement, I’ll help you.
If you need a knob or pretty much any other part recreated for your
Conion C-100F
Clairtone 7980
Helix HX-4635
JVC RC-M90
Let me know.
If you need a knob that I don’t have, I would need the knob to make a mold so you would have to get that to me but after that, I would be very easy to create more copies from that mold. You get the picture.
can you plate/chrome M90 knobs? I'll pay you for your time even though you say other wise. I like the knobs on the M90 but would like to have "shiny" chrome plating.
Is that possible? Do you have a plated side by side to an original....
The raw mold one looks excellent...
quote:
Originally posted by kittmaster:
that is completely off the chart. I'm interested to seeing the plated replica against the original.
What is the cost for something like that? I have a few conion knobs I'd like to have replated or completely replaced.
Hey Kittmaster, you have helped me out so much with your write-ups that it's what ever you want. I would like to make it clear that the I can recreate the knobs and buttons pretty accurately with all the tiny nuances of the original finish but the plating I referred to is actually metal 1000th of and inch thick (see picture) that covers the knob. The knob loses some detail but it’s good enough for me. You would probably be interested in taking the resign cast button and sending it out to be chemically coated for durability and consistency.
thin metal that covers the plated knob.
quote:
Originally posted by kittmaster:
can you plate/chrome M90 knobs? I'll pay you for your time even though you say other wise. I like the knobs on the M90 but would like to have "shiny" chrome plating.
Is that possible? Do you have a plated side by side to an original....
The raw mold one looks excellent...
Sure - resign cast buttons can have any finish you want. I just do the thin metal plating. With thin metal plating, You can shine the knob up as shinny as you want it.
quote:
Originally posted by Daiwa:
Ha, Cap G. Nice nice work! It's a great looking box, but wouldn't look AS cool without the fab'd knobs. OK, now that would be a great moniker for you: Fab Knob
I'll do your corporate identity, we'll make millions and millions selling knobs on S2G!!!EPAY!!!YaHOOEE!! HAHAHAHAHAHAHAH!!!!! WE'LL RULE THE WORLD, THOUSANDS WILL STAND IN LINE FOR YOUR KNOBS!!
Wow, this could be HUGE!
Besides Kitt, here's you're first customer, Blasterpunk. I'm sure others have posted in need of knobs.
Blasterpunk need Jumbo Knob Eventually, we'll need a storefront
This had me laughing for 10 minutes, you made my Sunday.
WOW.......that is really nice of you!!
I may take you up on it someday....
Here is something that you may want to take a real close look at:
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/p-12718-9010-dupli-colo...ol-paint-cs-101.aspxIts available at any autozone or auto parts store.....I'd love to see them and it may keep the shape definition......what do you think??
Capital G, Good Ass job!!!! I have seen that somewhere before...
What resin do you use? 'Cause I am trying to make an M90 battery door for Appleknoker... I have made his knobs (sorry, the pic is blury... the camarra focussed on the arials and pencil in the back-ground
)... If not, I paint them, leaves the detail a little better (but you do get dust
).
Kit, I did try to find a home 'Chrome Making Kit' and I found one! The only problem is that it cost about $500 US without shipping, and it is a highly polluting system!!! So, for Govermental Ministry of Environment (at least here in France) it is a big "NO, NO" to have!
Capital G is right, have a big company do it. I found one about 80 Km from my place, I have not yet taken time to see if they would do any plating for a private party and for such a small quantities of... Knobs and sliders
... Shoot, I should tell them it is for "BoomBoxes" and they will have to say "
YES!"
Now, Capital G, for the size of the door cover, being large and flat as the one off an M90 (I already made one for a GF 777, it was so-so but worked out for the volum was lesser) when my resin (transparent resin, to be able to mix the paint/colouration directly into the resin) hardens, it deforms... does yours do that?
quote:
Originally posted by bredgeo:
Capital G, Good Ass job!!!! I have seen that somewhere before...
What resin do you use? 'Cause I am trying to make an M90 battery door for Appleknoker...
Now, Capital G, for the size of the door cover, being large and flat as the one off an M90 (I already made one for a GF 777, it was so-so but worked out for the volum was lesser) when my resin (transparent resin, to be able to mix the paint/colouration directly into the resin) hardens, it deforms... does yours do that?
I have seen your work and it’s great, especially the battery cover. Your idea about adding color is pretty cool but it’s probably acting against the hardener because the paint has its own rate of curing that a lot slower that the resin. I would make sure that your using flat paint as opposed to gloss paint while adding a bit more hardener – 20% - followed by a full 24 hours in the mold before you even remove the piece. I use CR-600 from Micro Mark, I have always been happy with it.
since you have a C100F. Can you cast mold the cassette tray? I know its large part, but can't seem to find one anywhere.....my C100 needs one to be 100% physically complete.
quote:
...because the paint has its own rate of curing that a lot slower that the resin. I would make sure that your using flat paint as opposed to gloss paint while adding a bit more hardener – 20% - followed by a full 24 hours in the mold before you even remove the piece.
Yap, unfortunately, Capital G, all that has been look at, studied and done... the paint I use is resin based paint and it is in the mold that, once the resin is hard, that it deforms... I even poured straight resin (no colouration) and it did the same thing
... I even added fiber-glass and anoither time 1mm metal rods for a test and... GRAP!!!
I think I am going to change resin for big parts (will try yours) and see what goes... painting it after wards, of course
Later
you said it Kitt, off the chart.
Capitol, if you could make cassette trays you, now this is a fact, not an opinion, would make cash on ebay.
put a reasonable buy it now and they would fly. everybody is missing them.
quote:
Originally posted by kittmaster:
since you have a C100F. Can you cast mold the cassette tray? I know its large part, but can't seem to find one anywhere.....my C100 needs one to be 100% physically complete.
I actually had that tray out of the C100F the other day. The tray is strait forward. It’s that spring that’s weird. I’ll go forward with making a mold and casting one. I even have some .8mm aluminum stock that will re-create the front trim piece. As far as that spring goes, I just don't know.
Check your PM
quote:
Originally posted by Capital G:
quote:
Originally posted by kittmaster:
since you have a C100F. Can you cast mold the cassette tray? I know its large part, but can't seem to find one anywhere.....my C100 needs one to be 100% physically complete.
I actually had that tray out of the C100F the other day. The tray is strait forward. It’s that spring that’s weird. I’ll go forward with making a mold and casting one. I even have some .8mm aluminum stock that will re-create the front trim piece. As far as that spring goes, I just don't know.
Check your PM
hi Cap G...im trying to put back the spring my self i dont know how it should go...have you placed it back yet correctly? if so, and if isnt too much trouble would you mind posting a pic of maybe on how to place it or how it should look?
greatly appreciated...
quote:
hi Cap G...im trying to put back the spring my self i dont know how it should go...have you placed it back yet correctly? if so, and if isnt too much trouble would you mind posting a pic of maybe on how to place it or how it should look?
greatly appreciated...
Man, you're not kidding about that weird spring. I'll take a whole bunch of pictures for you tonight.
cool, I need to know what spring to start hunting for and see how it goes in!
This is an awesome job,amazing.
masterblaster - 2007-07-09 19:51
You are a capital ghetto blaster G. Great work.
I don't even need anything molded yet and I feel good about reading this thread. Cap G, you are the effin man, great work yo. How would you rate the difficulty of this whole process? 1 being easy and 10 being extremely difficult.
quote:
hi Cap G...im trying to put back the spring my self i dont know how it should go...have you placed it back yet correctly? if so, and if isnt too much trouble would you mind posting a pic of maybe on how to place it or how it should look?
greatly appreciated...
Sorry for the delay, my internet connection did not make it through the lighting storm.
This is what the spring looks like. Both ends are boxed, just different sizes.
This is the view from the bottom of the box.
This is the view from inside the box.
This is also a view from inside the box.
This setup is not a bad design, it's just not a great design. Make sure you use a good amount of grease so the slide is effortless.
G...thanxs a bunch for those pics, i sincerely appreciated!!...excellent illustrations!!...
best regards
-E
quote:
Originally posted by KSKI273:
I don't even need anything molded yet and I feel good about reading this thread. Cap G, you are the effin man, great work yo. How would you rate the difficulty of this whole process? 1 being easy and 10 being extremely difficult.
Please know that this is one guy’s opinion. I’m going to say 3 out of 10 for several reasons.
The rubber used to make the mold is does not have to be cooked. It can be made at room temperature. This is why it is called RTV for Room Temperature Vulcanizing. The mixing is one to one with both the rubber molding compound and the resins. Easy clean up. Molds can be made from paper and tape, cardboard, wood – my personal favaorite – anything really.
But what is really cool is the more you make, the better you get and the better the molds become.
For example:
The first mold you see early in this link was designed to minimize flash. “Flash” is the extra material or resin you get when you put two parts of a mold together. It’s usually in the seam. By creating a two part mold in which the first part of the mold ends at the back of the knob, I have essentially forced the flash to be on the part of the knob that nobody will see. However, this early design did not allow for the stems to be completely filled with resin only partial. This poses a problem the the knobs ability to actually turn the metal shaft it was designed to go on.
This next version you see below has no entry points for the resign, only exit points. The idea of incorporating an improvised injection system came to me yesterday why I do not rely on gravity but pressure to force the resin through.
Check it out
Check out the exit points for the air and resin to be pushed through.
quote:
Originally posted by Capital G:
quote:
hi Cap G...im trying to put back the spring my self i dont know how it should go...have you placed it back yet correctly? if so, and if isnt too much trouble would you mind posting a pic of maybe on how to place it or how it should look?
greatly appreciated...
Sorry for the delay, my internet connection did not make it through the lighting storm.
This is what the spring looks like. Both ends are boxed, just different sizes.
This is the view from the bottom of the box.
This is the view from inside the box.
This is also a view from inside the box.
This setup is not a bad design, it's just not a great design. Make sure you use a good amount of grease so the slide is effortless.
i put the spring as directed was quite tricky at first but got it, works like a charm....thanxs again this should definitely be in the conion archives!
thanxs much again!!! you dah man!!
Hey Blaster, glad I could help. You'll be able to sleep again eh?
One thing that I never noticed about that tray guide cap and pin is that it is cyclical. As you open and close the tray all the way, the tray guide cap flips from side to side pivoting on the pin. If you open the tray real slowly, the pin will land in the middle and the tray guide cap and the tray will stay open. Pretty cool.
Oh and the name “tray guide cap” and the other names are just names I made up for reference, I don’t really know the real names.
yeah, that knocks out 1 of the 4 things i still need done to restore my conion to working order...
next is the top and bottom deck...and the VU meters arent swinging to the music....every little bit helps to make the conion come back to life again
...yeah i noticed that too about the pin that it moves from one to side to the other...
Capital G you're a Mad Boombox Scientist
HA, HA. Great job man! I honnor your work man!
This thread is classic S2G. A little humor and a ton of hands on information. Your picks and diagrams are awesome Cap G and Blaster!
Staggeringly good work Capital G - truly outstanding.
Daiwa is right - classic s2g...
quote:
Originally posted by Daiwa:
This thread is classic S2G. A little humor and a ton of hands on information. Your picks and diagrams are awesome Cap G and Blaster!
I absolutely concur!
Great work man 100% dedication ...........
quote:
Originally posted by Daiwa:
This thread is classic S2G. A little humor and a ton of hands on information. Your picks and diagrams are awesome Cap G and Blaster!
what humor dee?, that some seriuos stuff....
by the way i couldn't take the credit for this, G is the Doc in this thread!!
rambo.estrada - 2007-07-28 15:39
Wow, that's amazing!!! Nice work!!
quote:
Originally posted by Daiwa:
This thread is classic S2G. A little humor and a ton of hands on information. Your picks and diagrams are awesome Cap G and Blaster!
I second this, definately!
Excellent thread, excellent work, Taking stereo2go to the next level IMO...create your own parts! Much better than searching around for a year and a day!
Capital G, you are the Master ! please help me to mold a battery door replacement for my M-90, and if you have the originals, I need the knobs for a LASONIC L-30, mines are very faded, I want a shiny ones, (same in different models of Lasonics, like the LPC-990)
Please....Please.....Please....
Hi Capital G.I have a question on the first mold you made for the M90. I know its silly but how did you get the resin in this mold? I did not see any holes for pouring in the resin.
Just curious as i am trying to make a mold and i am having a problem with getting the resin in the shaft of the knob i am creating.
thanks
tc
quote:
Originally posted by Tranxmetal:
Capital G, you are the Master ! please help me to mold a battery door replacement for my M-90, and if you have the originals, I need the knobs for a LASONIC L-30, mines are very faded, I want a shiny ones, (same in different models of Lasonics, like the LPC-990)
Please....Please.....Please....
As soon as I have KittMasters remotes done, I'll do the door for you. I have a m90 so no worries about getting me one. Cap G
quote:
Originally posted by Tony1109:
Hi Capital G.I have a question on the first mold you made for the M90. I know its silly but how did you get the resin in this mold? I did not see any holes for pouring in the resin.
Just curious as i am trying to make a mold and i am having a problem with getting the resin in the shaft of the knob i am creating.
thanks
tc
It's actually a good question. I originally put those big fill holes which were the bigger dows but I ended up using the smaller and bigger dows as escape holes when I filled the bottom part of the mold and then quickly sandwiched the two peices together. The air and un-used resin went through the holes. Messy but it worked.
hi capital G -- i ordered some M90 knobs several months ago -- there was no big hurry - and no hurry now
but asking if you are still interested in making any parts for members here ?
That knob molding job is the absolute tits. Makes me wish i was attentve in my high school art classes and drew the interest in this all. What an accomplished feeling one must get for recreating pieces that are rare and annoying to track down.
SICK THREAD ! Super informative and helpful
It feels good to see a group of peeps getting along and helping each other without looking to get rich in return
The more I read the more I love this place
I would like to have new knobs and switches for my GF777, could you make me some?
Cheers, Tobi
