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First of all, it seems that the two differences between Studio 1 and Studio 1M are that the styling of the vu-meters (1 haves round scale and 1M haves in-line scale) and the fact that 1M haves FM till 108 while 1 haves FM going till 104. If there are any differences, please let me know.

I like this German engineering very much. The unit is very easy to disassemble. Already done that 5-6 times.

My unit have no working cassette deck so i assumed that it-s missing.
As i bought another studio 1 body for parts, i disassembled first that one and pulled out the belt. The bad thing is that you cannot see if the belt is missing before removing all the cassette deck mechanism.
The belt is around 13 centimeters in diameter, and 5mms thick (see picture)

I-m going to make this post about the disassemble process, telling my adventures on the side.

First: the back. It is very easy to take apart. After removing the speakers and the antenna chord, there are 4 screws on the sides that hold the entire thing. (Place marked as A on the back picture)

However, if you want to pull out the cassette deck mechanism, things get a little bit complicated. The mechanism is hold together by 2 screws on the back (marked as B on the back picture). One is easy enough to reach, but the other unfortunately is very hard to reach without removing the radiator. I managed to pull it out with the help of a pair of tweezers. And to complicate things even more, the play and stop (marked as C)are attached to the board with plastic parts. One you have to push, and the harder to reach, you have to pull. In order to do that, make sure it is in the UP position.

The front is easy to take apart too. First, you have to remove all the switches, and for that you need a 5mm sized star (inbus) screwdriver. After that (marked with arrows) there are 4 screws on the side and one in the bottom, in the battery cover.
In order to pull out the k7 mechanism, there are 5 screws to unscrew, in places easy to reach. Note that the screws from the top are covered by the k7 buttons. (marked as rounds on the front picture)

The belt from the tape counter is very easy to replace, provided that you have one of the right size. In my two units, i did not have one in one piece so i cannot say what size is needed, i guess i will have to try different sizes at a later time. The position of this belt is marked with red in the k7 mechanism close up.

An interesting feature is that you can tell the approximate production date of the unit by looking at the date written on the motor. It seems that my two units have been produced at a difference of 1 month.

Now to get back at my story, i have removed the k7 mechanism. Once removed, the belt is protected by a metal plate hold together by 3 screws, straight forward from this on.
To my surprise however, the belt was on his normal place. And since i have electrical current in the two wires connecting the k7 motor, i can only think that my motor is busted. I have another that i know works, but i will hold this operation on and submit everything to a friend that is more skilled than me.

I put everything together back again (putting back the k7 mechanism is more difficult than pulling it off) and i have used this occasion to change the face plate from the brown one to the silver one. It seems that it looks better, even if it haves a dent in the upper left side. Used the protection bars from the brown one since they were in better shape. Here-s the result:

Here is also some of the led work i have previously done on the unit. The leds are polished in order to spread the light more uniformly (they were focused on one point by default)

I welcome your comments. Still have a lot of work with this unit, but i-m getting there one step at a time.

Very usefull and clear.I'm waiting for a TELEFUNKEN to come and that seems to have some deck issues,but not mechanical.The seller sais that no sound come out from the cassette,though the mechanical works.
I agree with you about the quality built,very solid,though it seems have not so many parts inside compared to the ,let's say,the gf9595.But it weights over 13 kilo!

Thank you for your comments, Bogdan. I will be updating this topic as i proceed with the deck reparation. Unfortunately, i have done all i could with my technical knowledge, so the next steps will be after my repair man is available.

As an update for this thread. I just got my funken back from my friend the electrician. He made an awesome work. Restored the cassette deck mechanism, and changed every capacitor of the box (around 80 capacitors). Every switch was unmounted and cleaned. The parts telefunken body served its purpose well.

Now, my hifi studio works like new and i-m not expecting any problems for the next 20 years or so

He even made pics during the process. Here-s some:

hello nevone,

you wrot a very useful description. thank you so much.

one point of it is very interesting to me and i want to know more details about it.

i do have the same problem with the bulbs. so one of them in my box is busted too and i like to change all of them behind the meters. i am not an electronic technician but i think i am able to fix it with the help of your experiences.

what parts did you use to let it look so uniformly and let them shine with the same brightness.

did you use leds with resistors ? please tell me the exact technical details of the parts and their positions.

thank you for your time you spend.

best regards

doppelohr from germany

Originally Posted by NevOne: