Anyone open one up? I've got the screws off but there are two funny looking plastic things inside two deep holes on the middle right/left of the back case. They look like they go through to the front and hold the microphones in place. I didn't touch them because I didn't know how to remove them but the back won't come off so maybe it's related. They are not screws. Rather, they look like a cross (+) shaped raised peg. Too deep to use needle nose on them. In fact, a 5" screwdriver won't touch them. Anyone shed some insight on this? Just doing some cleaning, no repairs so I'd like to avoid the cost of a service manual if possible. However, if someone has a copy they'd like to share, I'd be very grateful.

Do you have pics. I am almost sure those are screws. There are 8 screws total. You also have to hit your eject to open deck door and slide up gently on the door to release from 4 locking slides. The front of this unit comes off so you must take off your knobs. hope this helps

Hello and thak you kindly for your response. I've removed 7 screws. 6 at the case-back and 1 in the battery compartment. The other two are most definitely not "screws" or at least not normal screws. And they can't be unscrewed using a "standard" philips screw driver. They are like I said; imagine a crossed shaped plastic peg that protrudes rather than a slotted or cross shaped recess. I tried using a small socket but 1/4" sockets are too big to fit down the hole so unless it's a special driver, I may be wasting time worrying about those two "holes." I wish I could take pictures of those but imagine a 6" deep 3/16" hole -- pretty hard to photograph to the bottom of it.

As for the cassette, Yes, I did eject the door and it's not hanging up here. I did not remove the door because this does not appear to be the type of door that can be removed from the front like Sony or some Superscopes without accessing the rear. Rather, there is probably something behind that holds it in like on Sanyos. Oh and finally, I did remove all the knobs. They are not the problem.

if i am not mistaken the front cover pulls off make sure all buttons are off and tape door may need to be taken off,,if you look carefully just the clear plastic of the door needs to be removed

Maybe I'm missing something here. I'm posting a few pics, hope they show up OK. The first is the back. I've removed screws from the top corners, bottom corners, middle slots (there are screws in there), battery compartment (1 screw). The funny holes I'm talking about are the two on the far left/right about middle high. I don't think there are screws in there and the pegs are probably locators for the front mics. -- again, correct me if I'm wrong.



All knobs, button caps are removed.

The cassette door is shown in another pic. I've tried and can't get it out of there. I was able to dislodge it on the right and it's off the gear now but the right side won't come. I don't want to break it and it doesn't seem to be what is hanging up the case anyhow. It feels more like the hangup is topside.



Final pic shows the clear plastic cover over the door. I can't see how removing that cover will have any effect on removing the case back. Further, it looks like the plastic is rather thick and inflexible at that point. Prying may break it so I'm reluctant to do that if it isn't necessary. The unit is fairly mint and if it was a junker, I'll try anything.

OK, didn't want to waste anyones time just in case my eyes were playing tricks on me and the cross shaped peg was actually a slot waiting for a screw driver.... I finally found a LONG phillips screw driver and probed it into the last holes. Nope, no-go. It's not a screw. Again, I think that they are simply locators for the microphone.... I'm stumped. The bottom will separate about 1/4". The top doesn't seem to want to budge at all like I'm missing a screw someplace.

The odd screws that are behind the mics dont matter they dont have to be bothered. The four outer screws and the two inner screws PLUS THE ONE IN THE BATTERY COMPARTMENT are the SEVEN TOTAL SCREWS holding the front to the back . The clear cassette door cover MUST COME OFF and then the cassette door MUST BE CLOSED. Just carefully lift the cassette cover straight up off the frame. It will pop off. Also the switch caps and the knobs must be removed or it will not come apart. (You can leave the two round button caps on the right side) At this point the radio should split except for the top which you do have to pull a bit. (It seems like you are going to break something) There are tabs holding the top in place. A bit of careful wiggling and reasonable force will seperate it at the top. If this doesnt work then somebody glued the Fker because this is how you take it apart no if's and's or but's about it.

Also, when you get it apart be careful because there is nothing holding the tuner dial aluminum or the LED board. They are held in with the main screws.

One more thing, I just did it JUST FOR YOU so don't say it wont work!! lol

It's like the 5600 ?
The door cover in clear plastic have to be removed pushing it Up a little.
The frame of the tape door (the piece which holds the door clear plastic cover) stays with the mecha all the time. That's you can remove the front without removing the door frame.
Of course you need to remove the door cover.
Note that the inside-wall of the cassette compartement it isn't part of the front (like many boxes). Here look like brushed aluminium, a plate that it's holded with the mecha. So the front is removable even while the frame stays with the mecha.

My Bad there are 7 screws total

quote:

Originally posted by bashngu:
The odd screws that are behind the mics dont matter they dont have to be bothered. The four outer screws and the two inner screws PLUS THE ONE IN THE BATTERY COMPARTMENT are the SEVEN TOTAL SCREWS holding the front to the back . The clear cassette door cover MUST COME OFF and then the cassette door MUST BE CLOSED. Just carefully lift the cassette cover straight up off the frame. It will pop off. Also the switch caps and the knobs must be removed or it will not come apart. (You can leave the two round button caps on the right side) At this point the radio should split except for the top which you do have to pull a bit. (It seems like you are going to break something) There are tabs holding the top in place. A bit of careful wiggling and reasonable force will seperate it at the top. If this doesnt work then somebody glued the Fker because this is how you take it apart no if's and's or but's about it.

Also, when you get it apart be careful because there is nothing holding the tuner dial aluminum or the LED board. They are held in with the main screws.

One more thing, I just did it JUST FOR YOU so don't say it wont work!! lol

Thanks Bashngu, that is the best description I've received by far. What is the secret again to getting the plastic cover off? Do you just slide it upward against the door? It doesn't seem to want to budge. No prying on the tabs, right?

~Norm.

quote:

Originally posted by bashngu:
The odd screws that are behind the mics dont matter they dont have to be bothered. The four outer screws and the two inner screws PLUS THE ONE IN THE BATTERY COMPARTMENT are the SEVEN TOTAL SCREWS holding the front to the back . The clear cassette door cover MUST COME OFF and then the cassette door MUST BE CLOSED. Just carefully lift the cassette cover straight up off the frame. It will pop off. Also the switch caps and the knobs must be removed or it will not come apart. (You can leave the two round button caps on the right side) At this point the radio should split except for the top which you do have to pull a bit. (It seems like you are going to break something) There are tabs holding the top in place. A bit of careful wiggling and reasonable force will seperate it at the top. If this doesnt work then somebody glued the Fker because this is how you take it apart no if's and's or but's about it.

Also, when you get it apart be careful because there is nothing holding the tuner dial aluminum or the LED board. They are held in with the main screws.

One more thing, I just did it JUST FOR YOU so don't say it wont work!! lol

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Stormin Normin:
Thanks Bashngu, that is the best description I've received by far. What is the secret again to getting the plastic cover off? Do you just slide it upward against the door? It doesn't seem to want to budge. No prying on the tabs, right?

~Norm.

With the cassette door open, just pull up lightly on both sides while holding the door frame down with your thumbs for support. You will have to "pop" it. Just go slow so the tabs dont break.

SUCCESS! Wow, you guys are great and a big fat salute to you!

quote:

Originally posted by Stormin Normin:
Anyone open one up? I've got the screws off but there are two funny looking plastic things inside two deep holes on the middle right/left of the back case. They look like they go through to the front and hold the microphones in place. I didn't touch them because I didn't know how to remove them but the back won't come off so maybe it's related. They are not screws. Rather, they look like a cross (+) shaped raised peg. Too deep to use needle nose on them. In fact, a 5" screwdriver won't touch them. Anyone shed some insight on this? Just doing some cleaning, no repairs so I'd like to avoid the cost of a service manual if possible. However, if someone has a copy they'd like to share, I'd be very grateful.

Pm me, i have the service manual for it . I just need yer email and i will send it to you.