Well I decided to take off the back of my Sanyo 920 since the power button will not shut the unit off. It stays on all the time only when you unplug it does it shut off. Well the good news is I spun the flywheel inside since the belts broke while it was playing it was like the heads were engaged. Now it works with the on off power buton like it is supposed to. AND THE BAD NEWS! The plastic studs that actually hold the screws in place to tighten were really in fragile state. So 2 of them on the back lower right side are shot. The unit is loose and really no way of tightening it up. Question is how if any do you remedy this problem. This has become one of the more frustrating things when working on the old boomboxes. The plastic is VERY brittle. I am sure you guys have ran across this problem before. Any hints to fix? Thanks!!!

If the studs are broken at the base, they can be repaired by using Testors model glue. I've used it several times with great results. Be sure to let the glue cure for about 12 hours to be safe. Of course, don't over-tighten the screws.

If the threads are stripped, one method is filling the hole with super glue or an epoxy that will completely harden. Drill a small pilot hole and then rethread.

Someone also posted a thread a while back on reforming posts using JB Weld (I think) and rethreading.

thats correct fatdog especialy the epoxy like the permatex plastic weld that i use alot you can find at your nearest friendly autoparts store

In my experience, the best product to use by far is liquid acrylic solvent available at any TAP plastic store. You use it in conjunction with a plastic bottle and needle syringe, also available there. It melts the plastic (literally) and welds the peices together. The resulting repair is as strong as the original because there is no foreign material. Once properly cured (evaporated), the break is literally fused together. I have successfully used this method of repair for most all breaks in boombox cabinets including cracks on the case itself. The only thing is that you have to have all the peices because this is not a filler type glue, rather a solvent to weld peices together. If a peice is missing, it will always be missing although it is possile to fuse the available peices and when cured to full strength, the void is then filled with an appropriate plastic filler prior to painting, if necessary.

Well I appreciate the help. The bad thing is it didnt just break in half like one piece but there are like 3 pieces for each stud. I am gonna try to fix this but I aint sure its possible with the state of the plastic I am not sure.

try this. i used this to fix broken posts on my M90 a while back

Hey Sin, that looks like it will work. What exactly is that gold tube that you have in place around the old post? And where can I buy plastic weld? Did you feel in the post completely and then redriil a hole for the screw to go thru? Thanks for the tip. As soon as I get plastic weld and a form to go around the post I can try his.

its just brass tubing i used from a hobby shop that was the same size as the post. as far as the plastic weld any hardware store should have it and yes i did fill it all the way, but make sure you get all the bubbles out when you fill it. also make sure you seal the bottom of the tube as the filler may leak out the bottom if not blocked.

Will do. I am going to stop at the hobby store after work tomorrow. Thanks.

And hardware store too.

kool. let us know how it turns out, and post pix of your handy work

quote:

Originally posted by SINISTER:
kool. let us know how it turns out, and post pix of your handy work

Well got the plastic weld, I hope its the same thing that you used, and I will get some copper conduit from work 2maro and go ahead to work. Hope it works.

if you got the 2 stage weld use just a lil more hardener

Will do. How long before you think I can drill a new screw hole in it, and what do you think maximum hardness time? Gotta get this fixed. I love the Sanyo 920.

i would wait at least over nite

Plastic weld and conduit in place. I will drill a small hole and put it back together tomorrow. Fingers are crossed.

Got the mx920 ack together. No digital camera here, my girl has it and couldnt wait for her to put it together. Anyway, I drilled a small pilot hole in the plastic weld then I took a little bigger drill and used it to countersink a hole so the head would go a little farther down inside the back of the radio. A little bit of the plastic ran down in the hole but no problem, I just used the bigger bit to countersink and before I put the back on and the screws in, I put some lithium grease on the screws so if 20years from now I have to take the back off it should be easier and wont destroy the plastic. And after putting the screws in and tightening them carefully I can say THAT PLASTIC WELD IS AWESOME. I used copper tubing like Sinister did filled in all the way around the post and used a toothpick to get any airpockets out and let it harden. Mine sat for 3 days before I could get to it but when you drill its like drilling in the actual plastic on the radio itself. Very hard and the copper tubind reinforced the post. IT IS TIGHT AS A DRUM and very solid. Best of all the power button now works. These Sanyos seem to have a problem when the belts break the power switch doesnt work I think coz the haeds were engaged.My other 920 was the same way and I got it to work also. I think my next try will be my Big Ben. It only turns off by unplugging the cord so I will try to spin the wheel inside to get the power button to work. Thanks again Sin for the advice. That plastis weld is unbeatable. I suggest you guys try it for the plastic repairs as you can drill, sand file it. Peace. Jamming to the sweet sounds of the 920 rite now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

good to hear man. did you take pix of the process? glad it worked for you.

No pics. SORRY!! The camera wasnt here and girlfriend was at work. That stuff is the bomb. Super solid.

kool man. glad it worked for you. what stuff did you end up using.