Can anyone give step by step instructions for replacing belt on TPS-L2. Would appreciate this.

I've replaced the belts on my TPS-L2 and WM-3 there are 2 belts, they are quite thick at least 1.2mm maybe more.I don't know what sizes I used I just chose some that from a pile I had that fitted.
Please bear in mind this is from memory
Taking the casing of is quite fiddly as the back and cassette door come off in one piece and the battery door normally falls off as you remove it.You also have to release the cassette door spring which is in the battery compartment.
I think this how I did it:
1.Remove the 3 screws on the plastic strip where the tone switch is this can then be removed.
2.Then remove the section of casing where the talk button is should just lift off.
3.Remove the the 2 screws on the back and the screw from the bottom, then remove the screw in the battery compartment and take out the metal plate.You can then see the door spring carefully take this out it might fly off.
4.The casing will come off take note off how the hinge for the battery door is connected.
At this point the casing will still be attached by the door stop, I left it like this as I couln't work out how to free it.
5.The silver button section is still held by 2 screws at the top of cassette well remove these and it can now be carefully pulled away, take note of the way the volume sliders go in they are fiddly to reassemble,the microphone might be glued in, as you pull the silver section away you might have to tease it out.
6.To remove and replace belts you have remove the capstan bearing assembly, to access all the screws you must remove the left hand circuit board the one with the volume sliders.
7.At this point if the old belts are intact take note of there routing take a photo or draw them.
8.Remove the screws that hold the bearing assembly can't remenber how many, be careful of the spring note how it is fitted it's for the button return and hesd retract.
8.Old belts can now be removed.
9.Fit new belts and reassemble should be the reverse of the above, but I remember it taking alot longer.
There are some pictures here, not mine, and doesn't translate very well.
TPS-L2

very good description. i don't know how to explain it with the words like you did. let me add one thing. even though alot of the screws seem like they fit fine in a certain spot don't assume they do. most must be put back in the same place they came out off. i messed up last time and switched the 2 screws in the bridge over the motor. they fit fine but i jammed the cassette plate down and it wouldn't return the cassette back to the out position. it took me a couple of hours to figure out where i went wrong. draw pictures of where they came out of and set that screw on the drawing.

Thank you gentlemen for your fine description. I will now tackle the job. I'm proud to be a member of the brotherhood of S2G and amazed at the the amount of knowlege that is out there.

ok

let me add just one thing. the proper way is to leave the silver plastic control panel in place or just loose enough so it can be moved slightly to move the printed circuit board when loosening the screws holding the bridge. i haven't tried it yet but that is the correct way to do it. if you don't you will break the wires holding the little microphone in place. if you can live without a fully functional mic. just tape the ends of the broken off wires and leave them that way when reassembling the plastic silver piece. if you do that when you press the "hot line" it will still quiet down the music but of course the microphone will not work. also i put several layers of black or duct tape on the inside of the opening door so the pillars don't scratch the inside while installing the belt. you will see what i mean probably after you see the little scratches when you put it back together. if you can get the door unhindged it will not be a problem at all. i have not figured that part out yet. save the little mics as you may sometime want to put them back on so it will be more original. as far as size goes i use 1mm. X 5.7 in. X 4.7 in..the first one i did was 2 or 3 years ago and it is still sounding great. if i try a larger size it will jump off the motor shieve.

Rerooted, great tips.

thanks much,,it all came from trial and error and alot of tips right here on pocketcalculator show. if you work on any of the players your self i would go back to start of TECH,TALK, and read it through a couple of times. you will be surprised at all the helpful info there.