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AIWA HS-JX505 - Bad caps

plop - 2010-06-11 13:49

I recently got my grubby paws on an Aiwa HS-JX505. Sound on it was terrible. Up to level 10 and right channel was definitely quieter than left channel and both channels were also extremely very low. So out with the screwdriver set we go ...







It is clear to see that we have a bit of a problem with a few leaky Nichicon electrolytic capacitors. I've identified that there are eight caps in all that will need replacing

2x 220mfd 2v
2x 100mfd 2v
2x 47mfd 4v
1x 100mfd 4v
3x 220mfd 4v

I can easily source the 4v caps, but after trying RS Components, Digikey, Mouser, and Farnell/CPC I am seriously stumped as to where to get the 2v caps from. I know I could probably get away with using 4v on 100mfd as they are reasonably spaced apart but the 220mfd are quite packed in with the rest. Can anyone here offer a suggestion as to where I may be able to source them? Source must be either in UK or willing to ship (at a reasonable price) to UK.

drmr2000 - 2010-06-11 14:26

I am looking for those myseft, very hard to find and that pretty corroded, those traces are more likely gone. Electrolytic leaked all over the PCB.

transwave5000 - 2010-06-12 11:49

Matbe SMT caps will work.

220uf 3V

plop - 2010-06-12 12:42

Smile Thanks, never thought to try SMD tants. I'll add a couple of these to my Digikey order.

plop - 2010-06-16 04:45

Whilst I was trawling the web, I came across this web page about repairing circuit boards featuring SMD capacitor failures.

http://www.repeater-builder.co...ra/spectra-caps.html

Ok it is not directly related to portable audio, but it is an interesting read as there is much written regarding SMD capacitors that I have seen in a number of Aiwa boards. Of particular note is that it is generally taken that capacitors older than 10 years would very likely show signs of leakage (sometimes hidden under the SMD caps) and not always easily apparent to spot. Nice close up pictures as well showing the kind of damage a leaking cap can cause.

rerooted - 2010-06-17 21:49

let me slip a small question in here. i bought a 505 aiwa a few weeks ago. at first it was doing it's auto reverse move just fine. lately it just quit. i am a non electronics type person but i can usually get a belt on. i can't quite tell from your great photo's if it is an easy job to replace the belt. it would be nice to know before i start taking it apart. any answer would be much appreciated. i am starting to get a slight case of the wobbles also.

plop - 2010-06-18 04:31

If it is still able to operate play, ffwd, rew etc... then it is unlikely to be an issue with the belt. Although given the age of these units it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the belt anyway. If you are not getting any auto-reverse mechanism movement but the radio and forward play back still works (or even no power to the unit at all), it could be as a result of bad capacitors leaking and subsequently corroding out traces to the auto reverse circuits (or even + power line).

To answer your question, getting at the belt is pretty straightforward in the JX505 unlike some other AIWAs. Once you have removed the outer casing, remove all the screws attached to the main PCB (There are two on top - 1x by the tape head ribbon and 1x on the internal battery ground). NOTE : there is also one screw on the sides holding the battery connector.

Once you have removed all those screws then you should be able to gently lever up the mic and headphone jacks from the chassis with a small flat blade screwdriver, this will free up the main PCB. When you have gotten this far you need to carefully separate the ribbon cable (underneath the main PCB) from the double sided tape holding it to the chassis and itself. Try not to crease it when doing this. Once you have done that, then you should have good access to the belt. As seen in picture #1.

rerooted - 2010-06-18 20:22

thanks very much for your great understandable description. you may be correct but i hope not. it really mimics most of the belts that i have replaced over the last few years. the longer i use it the worse it gets. at first it would struggle but make the turn. now it is a take it out and flip it. also that wobble grew to the point last night i just shut her done. sounds like i can do a belt on this one. i tried a cs-j1 "i think" that was way past my abilities so i just use it as a display as the condition is ok. thanks again,,after reading your description i had a burst of confidence so i really do appreciate your instructions.

plop - 2010-06-19 08:11

Well it was Saturday and I had a bit of spare time so I made up some baking soda paste, dug out some cotton buds and got scrubbing. After a quick mop up with some water and a wipe down with isopropyl alcohol followed by a blast of compressed air the result is quite pleasing.



Most of the hardened crusty salt corrosion is gone apart from a few hard to reach nooks. The conformal seems to have survived quite well despite the drenching in boric acid. I did not see any traces affected which is also a bonus.

I'm now waiting for my Digi-Key order to turn up on Monday and we'll get onto replacing the leaky caps next.

rerooted - 2010-06-19 20:56

looks like a nice clean soldering job you did. i do soldier occasionally but mine doesn't quite look like that.

plop - 2010-06-19 21:13

quote:
Originally posted by rerooted:
looks like a nice clean soldering job you did. i do soldier occasionally but mine doesn't quite look like that.


LOL I haven't touched the board with the soldering iron yet. I've only cleaned the capacitor acid off the board. I've got an order from Digi-Key with some parts I need to replace the failed capacitors. Smile

rerooted - 2010-06-20 19:57

i am confident you can handle it. you no what would really be of help to many members. this is it " just a couple of paragraphs to get us non=electrical people out of the stone age. need not be real elaborate. i know,,i know,read it on the interenet lazy man...

plop - 2010-06-22 14:49

Anyway it's Tuesday evening so I decided to do some restorative work.

Caps off and contacts cleaned and re-tinned





Good cap, bad cap



Close up of bad Nichicon caps and all the crap that has leaked out



New Panasonic caps installed onto PCB. Despite substituting the 2V caps with 4V I managed to fit all of them on.



All contacts soldered and ready to be closed up.



The unit now sounds amazing. Volume has been restored to normal levels. Bass sounds really rich and punchy. With DSL enabled the bass levels are just insanely deep. Trebles are tight and sharp with the BBE enabled. I am very happy with this renovation.

thelion - 2010-07-06 12:25

Hi plop,
Very impressive work. amazing!!

I Got this AIWA HS-PX303 from Ebay and it has very low and distorted sound and I have tried to diagnose the problem for a long time and there you are gave me the solution.

now I am trying to follow your path but i got stuck at Digikey trying to order my caps. I have the list but i don't know how to identify the Digikey part numbers. Confused

can you please help with that?
I need: 2x 470uf 2v
4x 220 4v
4x 100 2v
2x 22 6v

Except the first two which are plastic wrapped, I know they are Aluminum surface-mount capacitors but thats it. I will be more then happy if you can help.
Thanks Regards TheLion

plop - 2010-07-06 15:43

quote:
I need: 2x 470uf 2v
4x 220 4v
4x 100 2v
2x 22 6v

Except the first two which are plastic wrapped, I know they are Aluminum surface-mount capacitors but thats it. I will be more then happy if you can help.
Thanks Regards TheLion


It would be a great help to get an idea of what the existing components look like and also where in your PX303, before deciding the best way forward with component replacement. So to that end, a few photos of the PCB with the affected components marked up would be great. But in the meantime I can make a few limited suggestions.

Your problem may with the 100uF 2v capacitors assuming they are "cans" like in the JX505, since Digi-Key (and seemingly anyone else for that matter) don't seem to stock any 2v aluminium electrolytic capacitors in "cans", in which case you may need to look at a comprise replacement for these eg tantalums, larger voltage ratings etc. I opted for higher voltage rated parts as there was limited extra space, but you may not be so lucky.

For the 4v 220uF SMD capacitors I would recommend the Panasonic ones and they come in quantities of 5 per cut tape. PCE3848CT-ND

Or you could order the slightly more expensive Nichicons if you prefer, also in quantities of 5 per cut tape.
493-2081-1-ND

For the 22uF you may need to go up to a 6.3v rating since 6v are not available from Digi-Key. I have not come across any of the 22uF 6v, so I do not know what dimensions they might be in an AIWA PCB. This would be critical if you are replacing an existing SMD, as any replacement needs to have a similar sized footprint to replace old one when resoldering.

To remove duff SMD caps read the link in my third posting, someone there gives a good explanation for removing them without specialist tools and minimal damage to the PCB. It is about 1/3 the way down the page.

thelion - 2010-07-11 06:05

Hi plop

Thanks very much for your reply and help.

I would really like to add couple of PX303 PCB photos but unfortunately I don't know how. Confused

Anyway the PX303 is almost the same PCB design. the Caps located at the same place as the JX505, very close to the headphones output.

I have made some research and I have found out that the two 22uF 6V are the ones that got bad. and also one of the 100uF 2V. the rest seems fine. they look exactly like the one in the links you sent me. the 22uF dimensions are 4.1mm.

Regard the removal, I have checked that post and I have managed to remove all the bad caps.

Thanks again for your help don't know what i will do without your help. Big Grin

Regards TheLion

walkgirl - 2010-07-11 07:06

Red Face Smile

plop - 2010-07-11 14:40

quote:
Originally posted by TheLion:

I would really like to add couple of PX303 PCB photos but unfortunately I don't know how. Confused


1. Take a picture on your digital camera of choice save/upload picture to your computer.
2. Go to a free picture site eg. http://www.tinypic.com/
3. Upload picture
4. Copy the url of the picture from said picture website. For example Tinypic would give you http://i49.tinypic.com/am3yvp.jpg
6. Reply to message in forum
7. Enter some text
8. At appropriate point in reply, along the top row of buttons in the reply window click on button 3rd from right
9. Add url copied earlier in 4. click ok to close add picture box
10. Click post now to show everyone your pictures.

thelion - 2010-07-11 21:31

quote:
Originally posted by plop:
It would be a great help to get an idea of what the existing components look like and also where in your PX303, before deciding the best way forward with component replacement. So to that end, a few photos of the PCB with the affected components marked up would be great. But in the meantime I can make a few limited suggestions.


OK, Thanks for the uploading instructions.

These are the HS-PX303 PCB Photos:
PX303 APX303 B

Hope its good enough my first uploads.

plop - 2010-07-15 03:03

Not bad pictures. At a guess the through hole 220uF pair on the left hand side are probably the left and right filter caps that are affecting your sound.

thelion - 2010-07-15 07:15

which ones do you mean? the ones right underneath the headphones socket? the plastic caps? I have tested them with multimeter they look fine!? or maybe the aluminum caps, one on the right to the headphones socket and the second a bit to the center? Confused

plop - 2010-07-15 11:15

The two below the headphone jack. The two to the right of the headphone jack do not look like through hole types. If you have the schematics for this model it would be quite easy to see, but I am just making an educated guess. If you are getting a couple of leaking caps on the PCB, it is likely the other caps aren't far behind in terms of deterioration. So you may as well replace them all, besides replacement aluminium electrolytic caps aren't that expensive as a replacement component. The last thing you'd want to do is have to do a major clean up like I had to with the possibility of corroded traces, because no one had noticed the leakage until it was too late.

cooldude - 2010-11-02 12:28

I have an Aiwa that has everything working except for the sound. There's absolutely no sound from the radio tuner. When I play the cassette I can hear a slight hum/buzz. Does it have the same problem as mentioned in this thread? Would replacing these caps fix the problem?
Thank you.

plop - 2010-11-07 01:52

quote:
Originally posted by cooldude:
I have an Aiwa that has everything working except for the sound. There's absolutely no sound from the radio tuner. When I play the cassette I can hear a slight hum/buzz. Does it have the same problem as mentioned in this thread? Would replacing these caps fix the problem?
Thank you.


If it is as silent as you describe, then chances are that if you open it up there is likely to be a lot of electrolyte all over the PCB from the failed caps.

Alternatively it could be that the pre-amp or power amp circuit needs attention. Probably failed caps on those parts of the circuit or less likely a fried IC.

plop - 2011-09-16 01:23

JX505 Deep Bass Mod

 

I managed to end up with another JX505 recently (a second bi-azimuth mech type ). It had a number of issues.

 

1. Very low volume

2. Leaked caps

3. DSL not working

4. FM radio not receiving any stations

 

After thoroughly cleaning this one, I replaced all the capacitors as per usual. EXCEPT for the two DC blocking capacitors. I decided to have a bit of fun. Instead of substituting the 220uF 2V for 220uF 4V (it is a tight fit but these do fit in), I decided to put in their place a couple of pre-used but tested ok 470uF 2V caps that I had knocking about.

 

The FM radio was still not working correctly, but with a test probe on pin 1 of the tuner flexible ribbon cable I was able to confirm that stations were being received. Therefore a break existed somewhere between this point and the ground on the headphones. Eventually after tracing through everything, I discovered the acid from the capacitors had completely eaten through the copper trace at the point where it connects to the copper coil by the headphone socket. This was repaired and once again it was possible to receive FM stations the usual way.

 

Compared to the 'regular spec' JX505 there is a subtle difference in the sound and even without DSL it is possible to recognise that there is a lower point from which the bass rolls off, but the sound is still quite neutral.  Engaging DSL and the bass is very deep. It is a very low and warm bass. The bass level remains consistent and balanced throughout.

- 2011-09-16 02:59

Originally Posted by plop:

JX505 Deep Bass Mod

 I decided to have a bit of fun. Instead of substituting the 220uF 2V for 220uF 4V (it is a tight fit but these do fit in), I decided to put in their place a couple of pre-used but tested ok 470uF 2V caps that I had knocking about.

 

What Did Your change of these Value's do to the Sound output ? what difference can you Hear versus a Standard 'Not Modified' Walkman

 

p.s. Are Only Aiwa's Walkman's Manufactured with bad Capacitors? or that have 'cap's' in them that dont last so long?

plop - 2011-09-16 03:37

James,

 

The increase from 220uF to 470uF on the DC blocking capacitors has the effect of lowering the low end frequency roll off presented to the headphones. This is proved from the following equation :

 

F=1/(2CPiI)

F=Frequency (Hertz), C=Capacitance (Farads), Pi = mathematical constant, I = Impedance (Ohms)

 

For example for a standard JX505 with 220uF DC blocking capacitors you would get the following low end frequencies before roll off for headphones of common impedance values :

 

32 Ohm - 22.6Hz
24 Ohm - 30.1Hz
16 Ohm - 45.2Hz

 

With a higher value such as the 470uF as found already in the PX303 and PX505, you would get the following values :

 

32 Ohm - 10.6Hz
24 Ohm - 14.1Hz
16 Ohm - 21.2Hz

 

Now obviously these are the ultimate roll off values, so you wouldn't necessarily hear anything at these values themselves, but the bass range is essentially extended.

 

Compared to the standard JX505, the modified JX505 has a more extended and deeper bass. It is more apparent on closed cup or open ear type headphones, than in ear buds.

 

AIWA certainly has the reputation of being especially bad with leaked capacitors. Certainly when you compare them to Sonys of the same era. Not anywhere as many Sonys would have failed capacitors as the AIWA models. I've also found that owing to the way the surface mount capacitors are sited, these would inflict the most damage to the PCBs. Larger values containing more electrolyte tend to leak the most over the PCB. The lower values tend to just dry out inside.

 

- 2011-09-16 10:54

Originally Posted by plop:

James,

 

The increase from 220uF to 470uF on the DC blocking capacitors has the effect of lowering the low end frequency roll off presented to the headphones. This is proved from the following equation :

 

F=1/(2CPiI)

F=Frequency (Hertz), C=Capacitance (Farads), Pi = mathematical constant, I = Impedance (Ohms)

 

For example for a standard JX505 with 220uF DC blocking capacitors you would get the following low end frequencies before roll off for headphones of common impedance values :

 

32 Ohm - 22.6Hz
24 Ohm - 30.1Hz
16 Ohm - 45.2Hz

 

With a higher value such as the 470uF as found already in the PX303 and PX505, you would get the following values :

 

32 Ohm - 10.6Hz
24 Ohm - 14.1Hz
16 Ohm - 21.2Hz

 

Now obviously these are the ultimate roll off values, so you wouldn't necessarily hear anything at these values themselves, but the bass range is essentially extended.

 

Compared to the standard JX505, the modified JX505 has a more extended and deeper bass. It is more apparent on closed cup or open ear type headphones, than in ear buds.

 

AIWA certainly has the reputation of being especially bad with leaked capacitors. Certainly when you compare them to Sonys of the same era. Not anywhere as many Sonys would have failed capacitors as the AIWA models. I've also found that owing to the way the surface mount capacitors are sited, these would inflict the most damage to the PCBs. Larger values containing more electrolyte tend to leak the most over the PCB. The lower values tend to just dry out inside.

 


Thanks Very much for this information.

I don't own any Aiwa walkman's - Mostly Sony's and a few other brands.

The computations is a good read & the Last paragraph is Most helpfull.

cosmos99 - 2012-03-21 04:34

Remember that JX505 bought from German seller ? Well, i had time yesterday to take care of it. I knew i had to change caps. Although there were no sound issue exept may be with DSL(remember,could'nt figure out wether it was there or not) ,but for sure the big issue was when i wanted to record some radio stations , it oftenly gone erratic like the sound going mute and the display too was going crazy , i usually needed to remove batteries to reset the thing(even manual resetting was ineffective).

 

So , i changed all caps , they had all leaked of course , hopefully not all over the board so no need to dish-wash the board , some alcool and cotton buds were fine here.But the issue with erratic behavior when trying to record radio was still there... so it wasn't a cap issue ! I then decided to change the door cell and guess what ? It was the culprit ! Now it works fine. The DSL is still nothing compared with what offers my JX303 , on the 303 it's immediate and very loud , on MY 505 it still seems to come slower and is very discrete ,nothing as loud as on the 303 but i suppose it is normal , it's also much more enjoyable this way with a good headphone. Plop,did you noticed such difference between yours ? Other than that all seems to be fine so i suppose the DSL is the way it should be.

 

Something i have noticed too is a lower record level on the 505 compared with the 303(and others) , did you noticed that too ? Recorded sound is good but is lower , but i suppose it is normal too.

cosmos99 - 2012-04-08 03:17

Originally Posted by cosmos99:

Something i have noticed too is a lower record level on the 505 compared with the 303(and others) , did you noticed that too ? Recorded sound is good but is lower , but i suppose it is normal too.

cosmos99 - 2012-04-08 03:51

On this picture , you can see the board not fully yet cleaned , as you can see the DSL section seems fine. There is just one 6 legs chip (from the dolby section?) that seems to have suffered from acid. Next photo shows a cleaned board , but no water here , only 90° alcohol and a cotton bud. So don't know if it's related to my weak DSL ?

 

 

 

And here a look at the caps ,of course although you wouldn't tell they were all dead ,they had ALL leaked and needed emergency removal.

 



edit: as you can see , our 505/50 are adjusted the same in the record level section so i'd be curious to hear your answer Plop.

 

 

 

plop - 2012-04-08 11:34

Hi cosmos,

 

Unfortunately for you, I don't record any tapes on my AIWA so I am not able to comment at this point about the recorded sound level on either of my two JX505. If I ever get round to doing so, I will let you know.

 

With regards to the 6 pin IC chip that you are referring to in your post, that IC chip controls the signal for the remote control.

 

DSL is quite complex on the JX505, since AIWA did not implement a dedicated DSL chip like say on the PX303 and so is a combination of various components. DSL is controlled by the 6 pin IC chip between the volume control and nearest to the power amplifier TA7688F chip. The 100uF 4V capacitor nearest to the internal battery contacts, is also part of the DSL circuit.

 

Circuitry can look deceptively clean. Alcohol will only serve to spread around on the PCB the slightly conductive residue from the capacitors. Worst of all is flux mixed with the capacitor residue. Washing the PCB is the only way to remove the residue. I've repaired many AIWAs with leaked capacitors, and at the beginining took the lazy route of just a basic mop up with alcohol to find I was only wasting my time trying to diagnose crazy faults like these. Nowadays I just wash, dry, reassemble then see if there are any issues afterwards. At least then I can rule out any weird short outs. I reserve the alcohol for flux clean up only.

cosmos99 - 2012-04-08 11:57

Hi Plop and thanks for your answer ! I'm sure you're right , well it's a lot of work to wash and i won't do the same error i did with my JX303 so i'll see that later may be. This reminds me the fact that who could figure the recheargable battery was the cause in a strange behavior when all capacitors were replaced. When you know there's no effect on a JX303 and may be others. So a good wash is certainly the solution.

cosmos99 - 2014-02-22 11:12

This evening i've been having a nice surprise i couldn't beleive my ears ! I decided today to charge the internal battery on my JX505 for some hours and...surprise !Heavy  DSL has awaken !!! It was weak before and now i understand it was not at its normal level , now it's heavy , strange , i will see if it stay forever at this level in the future , but it's a  thing that should be tried when something is still going wrong and you don't know why.  

 

By the way , i have received my second 505 today , in nice condition , clean inside and just a little swipping outside , without surprise the sound is weak(actually on one channel only) , DSL is weak and its too weak to handle a tape , it will need new caps ,unfortunately i think it's the second generation(no bi-azymuth), at least i think , i will have to check that.