Just look at the mess the acid left, turning the solder just to lead.

After I neutralize the acid and cleaned retinning the pads, don't add to much solder, just a very thin layer as the capacitors will not be flushed to the board and board may not fit back into chasis. And you have to use a good solder station, use a flat thin tip, that well regulated and can adjusted the temperture, prefer a hakko as they are built to last and use a better heating element.

After installing the first two capacitors, make sure when order capacitors, you look at the data sheets and you get the right size and lead spacing. Also make sure you check for any broken traces and remove and resolder any other points where acid may have been. Will do amp and preamp section once titanium capacitors arrive. Now to spend time rebuilt the transport.

After transport was fully taken apart and rebuilt, even clean corrosion off the capstan pulleys and various other parts, Tuner and LCD and relay contacts on mainboard took the worst of the acid, lucky was able to save pads. 

Prep the audio section of the board, lots of corrosion on the board

After neutralize the acid and cleaning and retinning the pads

All new capacitors installed, had to use mostly tantalum capacitor due to lead spacing requirements. But sounds great overall, as before no sound at all.

This is dedicated work indeed. You must have a lot a patience! Great job, and great photos. Is the sound not just restored, but upgraded in any way?

I have one of these too (actually a few, but I have only managed to restore one), an RX628. Nearly exactly the same as this one but with a plastic back and built in aaa battery holder.

Despite being quite ugly, it is one of my most used units (after being recapped and restored), as the sound is surprisingly good, perhaps due to the parabolic head.