SONY PS-X600 BIOTRACER TURNTABLE  with hard to find Picture Discs ( they play perfectly)

YAMAHA RX-V640 / AUDIO CONTROL EQ / YAMAHA NS-C444

Well to prove the packrat I am errr maybe horder LOL this may bring back some ancient memories for a few of us 50 somethings.  I still have the first stereo my parents gave me when I was 16.  I thought it was the coolest machine on earth.  Hardly high fidelity but it was my first and the all real wood cabinet and speakers are just beautiful even today.   Even the front grills of speakers are actual wood with cuts in between and behind grill ridges.  Certainly NOT the best for passing sound but classic 70's.  This is a ELECTROPHONIC AM/FM/Turntable with Aux. out mfg. in 1972.  When I got to college I bought a TEAC A-160 cassette deck to hook into my Electrophonic .  Not a good deck but hell it said TEAC on it right.  Shortly after that I got my real piece of audiophile history the Pioneer SX-1010.  A wild college party that year had some drunk blond walk over to our sound table and spilled beer onto the TEAC.... well it played like it was drunk after that...may it rest in peace.  I got out the Electrophonic from closet and hooked up still works gosh what memories of a teen that brings back at least the sober not high parts can remember ...BADD JOHN.  Just for fun included.

ELECTROPHONIC 1972 Stereo System

HERE is the 1976 TEAC A-160 Cassette Deck I had

30" 1000w drivers? Like stated already, 12" - 18" driver would do a better job,  you have to built a subwoofer enclosure with port tune right, as every sub is different .  In general terms tuning high (40hz is high) you tend to get a "peaky" response in that the sub will be noticably louder in the upper frequency range (45-60) but lack some in the other areas, especially in the 30's and lower.

Tuning low usually flattens out the peakiness and gives a more consistent output across the subwoofer frequency range 30hz (or lower) to 80hz or so.  These boxes tend to be larger with bigger ports, but are better for sq.  They also tend to work best with high performance more expensive subwoofers as the entry level subs in many cases just don't have the ability to play very low, you have to know the specs and test the driver first.

A poorly designed enclosure essentially works against the speaker to prevent it from producing its maximum output. A good design enclosure works with the speaker to allow it to produce its maximum output. It's also a bit of a myth that bandpass enclosures make woofers produce far more output. You can build a bandpass enclosure to produce a tall peak or a wider flatter response. You can't have both.

The differences

A sealed enclosure will be the smallest (for a given response shape) and will have good low frequency extension but may not have the best low frequency extension. If space is limited, this may be your best choice.

A ported enclosure will generally have a better low frequency extension for a given response shape (alignment) but would require a larger enclosure. If you made the enclosure as small as the sealed enclosure but ported it to gain the low frequency response, the output would deviate from the desired flat response.

A bandpass enclosure can sound good and give you a flat response but most of the generic bandpass enclosures are not designed for a flat response. They are designed to impress you in the stores. This means that they are built to produce a large peak at some frequency near 60hz. These enclosures will work well with something like rap music but generally won't sound good with other types of music. If you use a bandpass enclosure, it should be designed specifically for your speakers.

Their alot more that goes into a good subwoofer then the driver, it's mostly about the enclosure and area.   

Same go for HiFi speakers. It not about how many watts your system can deliver, or how expensive your speakers, or cables are? It has to do with more of size of room and if it's acoustically treated and other factors. Proper acoustic treatment can transform a muddy sounding room, having poor midrange definition and erratic bass response, into one that sounds clear and tight, and is a pleasure to work, or listen in, with decent speakers with good efficiency. For example "200W speaker at 100dB/W/m is louder than a 1000W speaker at 90dB/W/m". There is absolutely no good reason that anyone should imagine that a loudspeaker driver capable of 1kW is a good idea - it isn't now, and never was!!

Reason why I can make a good well rounded 10k - 15k dollars setup sound better then most 50k plus setup. As people get into bragging rights then the music itseft and buy equipment just to brag, then room size it going in and having the room setup right. You buy the equipment based on the room it going to live in and what needed. As far as 2k-3k cable, don't even get me going on that topic, as all I have to say is you might as well rub "snake oil" all over them.

i have a panny sg5000 with its original speakers-bloody stupid sounding,even at low volumes-but the cartridge stylus has just gone yesterdaya representative pic,not my own:

Just discovered this site and forum. I have an AIWA AF5600K music centre from around 1980. My uncle gave it to me in 1986 when he bought a new Sony stack system (not a patch on this beast). i used it all the time up until 1995 when i decided to buy seperates, however after a few years i got fed up with all the cables, the space they took up and the cleaning of the seperate units so i got out the old Aiwa again. I had forgotten how good it sounded. its been in use ever since and still going strong apart from the cassette deck which needs new belts. a few years ago i started buying other music centres from around the same era just to see if they matched up to this system. i also have a Sony hmk 7000, a Sony hmk 5000, a Sony hmk 80, an Aiwa af5080 and an Aiwa af5090. the 7000 comes pretty close and looks better. I'd love to get my hands on the Sony hmk 9000, that system looks fantastic but none have come up on ebay. the panasonic looks good too.