This is a colossal work! I have neither knowledge nor skills for doing something like this, huge props! It is nice that it has line input.
How did I miss this thread? When I had some free time I was going to start a knob factory. I always wondered how the inside was made, I kept thinking I'd have to machine the slot. How do you get the two 1/2's of the mold? I've got a rubber vulcanizing press that could be used to make the molds, it's used for jewelry so the end product is metal.
Hi @Mister X ... I used this technique so as not to do it all again from the beginning .. I give a summary of what I have done follow the photos ... I found the bicomponent silicone rubber on Amazon .... For mixing a part of A and a part of B of equal size .... two plastic cups ... adhesive paper tape ... small support to hold up a glass ... in this case a roll of adhesive tape (black) ... scissors ... Patience and Time and of course a knob to copy ... perfectly clean and dry. to facilitate .. I called AB the two plastic cups .... I make a hole with the scissors on the bottom Di A just as far as the stem of the knob to copy passes .... I position the knob as in the photo ... and from part of the bottom of the glass where the stem of the knob comes out I put some adhesive tape ... which has the double function of holding the knob still and not letting the liquid rubber come out from underneath ... I put the glass A on the support ... .. apart I mix the rubber and then towards A until the knob is well covered ..... The first phase is done on the label of the rubber container says to wait from 4 to 6 hours ... but I did work in the afternoon and the next morning I continued with the second phase ...
The next morning the gum was perfectly dry and I extracted the part from glass A ... I cut the bottom of Glass B as in the photo ... the plastic rings help to go straight ... positioned on the first part of the Mold with the knob inside ... a new rubber casting is prepared as before and the glass is completely filled B ... Let it dry as said before .... At the moment of detachment the two parts are perfectly adherent you have to force a little since the rubber is pulled in moderation so that it does not tear in the thinnest points .... The photo I have put is only demonstrative ... in reality the knob remains attached to the part B ... Then you have to extract it ... Finally, on part B of the mold you need to make holes for the resin to pour .... I drilled with a 3mm bit for wood ... I drilled by hand without a drill to open the hole ... being rubber it will tend to close. ..then after making the hole by hand, use the drill at moderate speed
... For the Resin the same thing as for the rubber ... Bicomponent prepared in a separate glass and used a plastic syringe without a needle ... insert the tip of the syringe into one of the holes and inject avoiding air bubbles ... move the syringe to other holes and fill the mold until the liquid resin comes out of the other holes on the top .... let it dry and take out the new knob ... Of course some will not be perfect but after a little practice you get an excellent result ... Here the sequence of the extraction of the new knob
Nice, thanks for the photos! For some reason I had it in my head that you had to do a solid piece and figure out a way to make the slots on the underside.
This is awesome. Great work. Thanks for explaining the process of the recreation of the buttons. Very useful, think I am going to try this too…
After a year of use I resume this project for some changes ... Let me explain, it works correctly but when you turn it on you can hear the classic .. Bump ... and I don't like it ... So I reopened and made this change on the previously redone circuit .... By measuring this initial bump with the tester and about 3 volts ... I redid this circuit (F Relay Cb) as in the picture ... the anti bump designed at the beginning was modified while I was testing it .. I added the two resistors below on the circuit side because they were not foreseen ... Operation .. When turned on, the circuit delays the connection with the speakers via the relay for about 3 seconds ... then it clicks ... but strange thing the initial and true Bump is not heard ... but you can hear the noise, on the speakers, of the relay contact. At this point I added the two resistors on the underside Now when switching on the signal first passes through the two resistors and we will hear the very low audio through the loudspeaker for about 3 sec., Then the relay clicks and we will have normal audio ... the final scheme and that of the antibump
