Just put Naptha on a cotton bud (Q Tip) and run it against the roller while in play mode, until the roller looks less glossy.
as long as you are not doing this you will be OK (says the guy who usually does just That while spray-painting...)
@bub: Got Naptha, works like a treat! Got it from my local pharmacy - 250 ml!!! A triple lifetime supply - less was not possible. I got a new Belt from @mihokm for the MkII - although mine is the MkI - but the new was too thin - and slipped all the time. My old one is fine. I see that @Jorge got the exact same thin belt for his MkII but i guess it doesn't slip like mine. @mihokm told me to make sure everything is rotating without blocking movements. Hardened grease an so on. @Jorge: did you completely disassemble the mechanical part to remove old hardened grease and replace it? Anyway it doesn't really matter the belt was very cheap. Very satisfied with the result. Cheers Per
From the Pharmacy?!? Wow, is it next to cannabis dispensary? As a member of IPMS I would also recommend sniffing polystyrene glue Topic for another thread: why do I Love my hobbies!!! And no, as I mentioned in my full story (link at the OP) I did not change the belt, the old one was pretty solid so I left the new one for future use. and CONGRATULATIONS!!!
I have some Rubber Renue that I use on pinch rollers.. https://www.mgchemicals.com/product...ers/specialty-cleaners/rubber-renue-408a-408b
@bub, what exactly is the cleaning process that you used? My stock pc202mii was working last year, but it is as of now unresponsive to the battery case.
Just put Naptha (Ronsonol Lighter Fluid) on a cotton bud and clean the pinch rollers with it as if you would alcohol. I usually clean it with the roller turning for evenness. If it's unresponsive to the battery case, make sure that 3v is coming out of the battery pack, then clean all the battery contacts with Deoxit D5. See if that helps.
I have some great news. I tried to simply use that new rechargeable pb3 aiwa battery i bought from a Singaporean ebay seller, and man did i forget how loud this thing gets. More research revealed that there is a hidden 4.7 uf 4v capacitor in the battery case, observing i can clearly see some green corrosion on one lead of the capacitor. I plan to soak the battery case in a cup of white vinegar to remove the corrosion.
not sure if fighting acid with acid is your best option. I use LCR (Lime Calcium Rust) sold here among household cleaning supplies, bleaches, detergents, etc. Sometimes renamed as CLR. If you dump corroded battery terminals in it you get a lot of bubbles and in a few minutes/hours all the nasty goo is gone. I wouldn't dump that 470uF cap into anything: if it leaked (mine did!) it is easier (and safer) to just exchange it for a fresh cap
In that case I'll try to soak the metal contact parts of the battery case in a mix of baking soda and water. I heard that baking soda neutralizes corrosion. I am getting all the necessities, tools and components to recap my pc202mii, real soon. Something you should consider adding in your guide is perhaps a simple diagram that illustrates where each components goes on the board, and the orientation (as in where does the + and - of each capacitor go on the board). I hope my suggestion isn't that much of a noob question, some of us are only now slowly getting into electronics and still have no clue how multimeters function... Thank god for guides. Also regarding the copper motor in the early pc202 series, is it true that the copper motor reduces noises in the walkman? I have a copper motor in my donor that could switch places..
As each P202 series board might be different I will not mark out the components and orientation for the guide, you do that yourself when you open the unit. The guide will be for general though hole capacitor Walkmans. The copper colored motor is made by Namiki, but all of them, including the silver can motors are high in quality. I would just oil the bearings and apply a small amount of deoxit onto the brushes.
I've lost the battery contact part. I think it can be made from aluminium foil or solder on a bent piece of a plastic card. @bub From the picture you posted, I am assuming that you made either a nimh or lipo battery adapter, with a step down converter (to get rid of that extra .7V from most available 3.7v batteries) with usb charging of some kind? Is is worth more for me to remake the battery contact part or make a new battery with usb charging? If the former, would you kindly be willing to share the dimensions of the battery contact part as well as pictures showing the 4.7uf capacitor and how it's connected? Figure 1 - contact with only 2 pins Figure 2 - contact with all pins Lastly, is it required that the contact rail are make contact with only 2 pins like in figure 1 or is it alright if the contact rails make contact with all 3 pins like in figure 2? Thanks in advance!
You can use copper sheet to make a new contact, it is more durable than aluminum foil. The battery adapter in my picture is a DIY solution to replace the lead acid battery using two small 1.2V Nimh cells. I'm thinking of posting that tutorial soon as well!
@bub thank you for your battery guide, it was very informative. I am pretty sure I either messed up or missed a step. Now no sound can be heard from the headphone out. So I redid the battery contact with a 220uf 4v cap added, that works. I drew a not so nice diagram of the caps and polarity on the PCB for reference. Unsoldered all caps (except the blue one), Dunked the PCB in a bowl of water and bicarbonato di sodio. Afterwards used a toothbrush, IPA and dry contact cleaner to remove all residue of the sodium. Soldered new nichicon capacitors. Used toothbrush with IPA to remove flux residue. Another spray of contact cleaner. Use sewing machine oil on mechanism and gears. Resoldered flexboard and cables. Did I do something wrong? There is no audio output anymore, not even noise/hiss. I tried resoldering the flexboard believing it to have been a cold solder joint, but the problem persists.
Check the position of the muting switch- flip the board over, and manually press both switches with your fingers. Can you hear a hiss?
Could you show where these switches are on my donor PCB? If you meant moving around the Dolby and EQ switches while playing, then no, no hiss can be heard, no noise from the headphone out. As I couldn't find a PDF service manual of this model.
Ah I forgot this model does not have a mute switch. Can you take a photo of the board with the new caps?
I do not see any major issues. This might be either really easy for tough... Try the following first: 1. Does slightly bending/flexing the board at various points bring the sound back? Bad Solder Joint 2. Check for shorts on the legs of the new caps installed, and check continuity to their traces. 3. Check the resistance on the vol pot, it should change when you turn the pot (rule out open pot due to washing) 4. Look at the board under a magnifying glass/usb microscope. Look for bad traces, shorts caused by solder splatter, cold joints
I didn't do any of these things execpt 1 and 3, as i do not have: a multimeter, or a magnifying glass. However I i substituted the board wit h my donor one, and recapped it. SInce it also had no noise, I deduced it was all in my head, er the flex cable. Changing the head with my donor head resulting in music playing but only from the left side, could be azimuth? Now the only issue is that the player is playing very fast. jsut to give you an idea of how fast, using Mikohm's 3000 hertz tape im getting around 3500-4000+. 3500 if i play with the pot at the bottom. Im going to try again but with the original pcb, if the music is still playing on only one side then im going to solder a cable bypassing the flex cable. is the speed in this walkman regulated by an IC chip or another component? Thanks in advance.
