No azimuth would never cause this problem. You need to verify where the signal is being lost. Use a multimeter to check continuity from the flex cable to the head, and head to the pcb. The speed issue is concerning: Check if you're getting proper pinch roller contact, and see if it happens with both boards.
hello! thanks for the useful guide. i cannot remove pcb from the body of pc 202 mk3 because is stuck by the headphones socket and led Must I remove the central plastic frame of the wallkan?
I did disassemble it completely, just for fun! But here is a photo which shows that the mainboard is NOT held by h/p or LED: If you post some photos it might be easier to answer your Q
hello Jorge. mine is is same of yours in the photo. that black horizontal small plastic around led and hp held the board...
Yes, if you want to get to the board, not just change the belt you must remove the siding Once all side-screws are out and BEFORE removing the sidewalls, put the whole thing in a plastic bag: some small pieces will be flying out!
Can anyone confirm the manufacturer of original caps in these machines? I've just got one for repair but have a feeling it has been recapped already. Has sound upto about volume 3 but squeal after that ... Looks like there was flux residue on board plus after removing a couple of caps it seems that the solder hadn't flowed through as they have a double sided pcb on most of the capps ..... would love to here your comments. Thanks in advance
All sorted .... got the feeling someone has been in previously and re soldered the caps on the board.... maybe thinking dry joints. Board removed and fully recapped with mainly modified surface mount panasonic electrolitic caps. All working fine now, sounds fantastic
Hello, I have the same hs-P202 MKIII which has a problem: when pressing play, the motor starts for 2 seconds, music OK, and then stops spinning. Pressing stop and then play again, the motor turns for 2 more seconds and then stops again. I tried: - other batteries - Power supply (2V) - removing the belt to see if the motor is stopped by the mechanism or by itself: it stops by itself. - with several cassettes - without any cassette Nothing worked. At this time, I don't know if the problem is the motor itself or the eletronic board or something else. Do you have any idea according to such a symptom ? Here is a short video showing the problem: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T6OqDmAu2uuXpd73NDU2ACNykPuL7K71/view?usp=sharing
Looks like auto-stop function gone Bad. Set it onto Auto-Reverse, press Play. If it stops, goes into reverse, then stops - check reel motion detector
Thanks Jorge for reading and answering my post. Just to be more precise and to avoid confusion: when pressing play, ff or rew buttons (full press with button lock or only just enough to start the motor), the motor turns for 2 seconds, then stops. If the buttons were fully pressed until lock, they remain in this position when the motor stops spinning. I already tried to reverse the tape with the direction button and also change the reverse mode, without any change of the behavior. Reel motion detector ? First time I've heard about that, but I just start my knowledge about such devices. Can you explain more about this feature ? Which parts of the device are dedicated to this feature ? How can I check if it is defect ?
this photo posted by @bub shows B&W wheel rotating over photo-detector when something moves: if no motion signal (end of cassette, or a jam) then servo stops the motor. However, since auto-reverse does not change direction before going into full-Stop, it might be something else. Hopefully, someone who has more experience with Walkmans ( @bub, @Boodokhan, @Valentin, @Deb64, @walkman archive ) will see your post, my 'specialty' is Discmans and sometimes bboxes, I do not have much success with Walkmans
@Mighty Mightor I have tested on my HS-PC202 MKIII and can tell that your problem is caused by that photo-detector. When I move the PCB away from the rotating wheel, the motor stops, exactly as your does. So there are a couple of possibilites: - the black gear is not rotating (that would mean the table reels themselves are not rotating) - the reflective coating on that gear is dirty or worn - the sensor itself or something in its circuit is bad. You can check the sensor with a multimeter, as the frequency of the pulses is very low. It is composed of a IR LED and a phototransistor. The led can be checked with the diode functionality of the multimeter and the phototransistor should switch when the gear is rotating, meaning you should see the voltage constantly changing from a higher value to a lower value at its collector. I made some measurements for reference: the LED of the sensor measures 1.03V forward voltage drop when tested with a multimeter (that can vary depending on the test current used by specific multimeter used). And I attach a picture with the signal I get at the phototransistor's collector, measured relative to ground. I would check the solder joints at and around the photo-sensor first and try to clean it. Unfortunately, I do not have the schematic or service manual for this unit. If there is someone who has it, please post it.
@Valentin you did it ! The black and white gear is spinning: cleaned I also cleaned the sensor At this time, the problem remained, so, I used the multimeter: - Led: 1,06V and a value of 1715 using the diode functionality - Phototransistor: not sure about the measure: 1 or -1 if I invert the multimeter spikes But here is something interresting: if I shortcut the phototransistor with the multimeter spikes (touching themselves along with the soldered pins, the motor spins continuously ! The problem is definitively there, but what are the options: - solder ? Visually, it is hard to see. I have cleaned the connections - phototransistor itself ? Can it be changed easily ? Are there any spare parts available somewhere ? This might help you: according by the seller, the device was fully working before shipping to me. It was very badly packed and suffered from the shipping.
Given the shipping conditions, try to resolder the connections of the sensor. But don't apply to much heat, as it is plastic and it's easy to damage it. @HWTest Thank you for the manual !
OK, thanks @Valentin . I suppose I have to resolder from the back of the phototransistor, the all 4 C,E,K,A pins ?
Before I go with resoldering, please have a look at these pictures of the phototransistor. Especially the first one. The bottom part seems "strange". And after fixing the phototransistor problem, I'll have another thing to repair: there is only sound on right channel. This was well known by the seller. It is not the good moment to dive into this right now, but I'd like to know if such problems are recurrent and usually easy to fix (jack connector ?) or if it is more often touchy. Just to have an idea of what awaits me until I can hopefully have a full working device. Is it worth the effort ?
@Mighty Mightor Something indeed seems strange, but I cannot judge by a picture. You must make measurements to confirm that the phototransistor is good or bad. Second, I suggest that you put the photos on this post only, not on the forum's gallery, as they're only related to this specific thread and do not look good on the gallery. You can do this by Edit --> More options --> Upload file. You can select to post it as a thumbnail or full image. Regarding the right channel problem, it can be caused by a number of things: an open or improperly soldered head flex cable, bad capacitors or the headphone amplifier itself can also be burnt on one channel only if the unit has been powered with reverse polarity. I have seen this in other walkmans that use Toshiba headphone amps. Capacitors are a common problem on this unit, so that would be the first point to try. Can anything be heard on the right channel, like hiss or motor hum ? Or nothing at all ? I don't know if it's worth the effort, that's up for you to decide. How much did you pay for it ?
@Valentin I changed the way I share photos in the previous post and deleted the media files. Here is my multimeter, a cheap one: Thanks for the help on the right channel problem (my mistake, the left channel works). I can hear something like a motor hum on the defect channel. I paid 27€ for the device. I must decide if I return it for a refund (seller is OK for that) or if I keep it. I'll probably keep it and try my best on it, as a training before working on my personal Aiwa HS-P303.
