Please post the link with the 220uF ones. Last time I checked they only had UMA0J221MDD, which are 8mm in diameter and will not fit in some places.
I have those ones in my "Aiwa HS-P303" folder, waiting for availability before ordering the whole batch in once: 100uF: https://www.tme.eu/fr/en/details/eeeft0j101ar/smd-low-imped-electrolytic-capacitors/panasonic/ 220uF: https://www.tme.eu/fr/en/details/uwt0j221mcl6gs/105degc-smd-electrolytic-capacitors/nichicon/ 220uF (alternavite): https://www.tme.eu/fr/en/details/eeefp0j221ap/smd-low-imped-electrolytic-capacitors/panasonic/ 330uF: https://www.tme.eu/fr/en/details/eeeft0j331ap/smd-low-imped-electrolytic-capacitors/panasonic/
My Aiwa P202 (I) had issues so I checked capacitors and many of them leaked (I home not destroying anything important). Don't have service manual to check that (only for PC202, but those are different) My question is, which capacitors goes where? Thanks I have only smd caps, I see that those legs are bit bigger but I don't have Dremel -> "Flattened pins have to be shaved a bit to fit thru the holes, I used Dremel with a diamond burr." Anyone did it differently?
I have repaired both the P202 and the PC202 and can tell the only difference in regard to capacitors are the output decoupling ones: in the P202 they're 330uF, in the PC202 they're 220uF. As a curiosity, what brand were the capacitors that leaked ? I recently repaired a P202 in which the only 2 capacitors that were really bad were the 2 330uF output ones (Nichicon) and the rest were ok (measured a little low on the LCR meter, but not leaky) - those were Nippon Chemicon. Also had restored a PC202 in which caps measured about the same as new ones (Nippon Chemicon caps).
Three near bottom, 330uF, 220uF on the left of it and on the right for sure, and probably this top 330uF too, but to less degree. Thank you very much, I will probably need to buy through hole caps, as those SMD have to big legs.
There is a kit available on ebay that includes all the capacitors plus the belt. Through hole caps that have that small footprint are very hard to find (especially the big ones 220uF and 330uF). SMD caps will fit, but you need to press the legs into the holes with some force, as it's a very tight fit. The 330uF ones can be replaced with SMD tantalums, which are much readily available, but more expensive (note that the mark on tantalums is on the + side, not on the - as on electrolytics). EDIT: only the 220uF SMD caps fit into the holes, the smaller 47uF did not fit and I forgot to mention that aspect. I installed a combination of SMD and through-hole. I think that kit is a good way to go: the components seem to be from a German distributor that may only sell to companies. The big EU distributors do not have a wide range of choices, so you will likely need a combination of THT and SMD electrolytics and also SMD tantalums for 330uF (3 x 100uF in parallel). If I hadn't already had in stock dozens of these caps, I would go for the kit myself, as it's the easiest way to repair this walkman. NOTE: Given the HS-P202 also has DSL, the output caps can be replaced with 220uF, which are more readily available. You will loose some bass, but that can be compensated by activating the DSL.
I will try, thanks. THis kit has some SMD caps too so it doesn't make sense, if I will fit them then I will fit them all Ok, now I understand. I tried to put smaller cap and it didn't fit. It maybe good idea to buy package of caps, i have idea to try first.
you can shave a bit of aluminum off the corners with an X-Acto or scalpel blade, this set of diamond files from my favorite Micro-Mark will do the job: 10-Piece Tapered Diamond Needle File Set thank you, @Valentin for the tip, now I realize how lazy'n'lucky I were when working on my AIWA in the OP, I did not realize that those are h/p coupling caps!! In most Discmans of that same era these are 100uF electrolytics, which I upgrade to 220uF audio-grade Nichicons or Black Gate Rubycons when reviving the babies, never bother with 330uF. What were they thinking???
The dot on the board is the positive, it would have been obvious if you looked at the pictures on the first page.
Seriously, I've got 330uF SMD caps and whenever I try to make those legs thinner, they just break. I used through hole 220uF caps instead for now. I think with the next repair I will try to solder those caps using hot air (just those 2). I'm curious how much bass I will lose. I don't like DSL that much (or MegaBass). And why PC202 have only 220uF caps.
I think with most modern headphones and IEMs (which have a V-shape frequency response), you won't loose anything. Even with headphones with a more flat frequency response I think the sound will be what it should. I have both the PC202 and the P202. The PC202 has 220uF output caps by default and it sounds very good. On the P202, I replaced them with 220uF because that's what I've got handy and sounds good to me. All units with bass boost function have 330uF on the output, including for example SONY DD33. I think that's because they were designed to be used with a pair of headphones that lacked bass.
Especially bass expansion combined with modern IEMs is a bit heavy on my ear drums. On the WM-DD33 even the lowest setting MegaBass is on the edge when listening to some classics like Invincible and Hungry Eyes.
Thank you Valentin and Emiel, I hoped it's not that important. And replacing those 330uF caps with SMD ones is PITA. I use Sennheisers P100II which give probably V shaped sound and Grado SR100(but with HP1000 drivers) which are as close to neutral as it's possible. Will try it with them.
I've just bought one without a battery gondola - I know but at least I have an Aiwa power supply. This one definitely needs the capacitors looking at so that should keep me busy. Thanks for the detailed info - very helpful In these days of 3D printers - has anyone got around to scanning the original battery gondola and selling them on ebay? There are a few people who do this for other Aiwa battery holders but that is mainly for the old Aiwa minidisc players.
I've read few posts of people who done battery compartment with 3D printers, but whenever they were asked for files to print, they didn't answer. My solution isn't pretty (can be done better), but works (and should work for every Aiwa with DC 2V and same plug as P202/PC202). http://stereo2go.com/forums/threads/diy-battery-pack-for-aiwa-p202-pc202.7490/ It has one plus over original one, that you can change battery on the fly (it has a cover, but I haven't made a pic of it).
After soldering caps and 5 cables (checked that with picture taken befire unsoldering and it's ok) my Aiwa has a buzz sound when playing tape. I think I've put caps same way those were installed originally, 0 side exactly oposite to circle on board. Left channel is louder, same as before I changed caps and there are 2 kinds of buzz in left channel mostly (especially when listening louder , on volume from 4 to 10). I looked on other P202 board and I see that mini jack is soldered differently. I don't know if it the problem with revisions (a lot of solder is on the MII board). I forgot to mention that caps that I suspect that were bad (board looked like it has been corroded) was 2 330uF caps. The rest were clean on the board.
To anyone who needs AIWA Battery Gondolas. There are nowadays a few sellers on Alibaba who provide decent products I have purchased one of these gondolas's for a px101, I don't recommend the lithium pack ones with a charging port as the charging function didn't work on mine, however, the battery-powered ones have worked decently. Though right now, since it's the New Year right now in Asia, order processing is a bit slow.
