hi I have been trying to repair my mums old WM-2091. I've never touched a walkman before but I have finally found all the issues ,one is it has dead capisitors, I can read on top of the caps there uF value but I have got any idea of what voltage they would need. I know you can put higher voltage caps than needed in but I don't know what the minimum is. This might sound like a dumb question but there is another number on top of the capacitors under neath the uF that has a number then a H is this a part number or something else. I'm very new to all this so help would be greatly appreciated.
Generally for SMD electrolytic capacitors in Walkmans, voltage is not really an issue as size is the limiting factor. Any modern cap that will fit has the same or higher voltage rating than the original.
Thank you bub I was able to find a service manual and I purchased some matching the voltage as near as I could buy with exactly the same size
I recapped it and it won’t turn on I have given up with it I poured too much time and effort into fixing it and all I did was broke it further
I think there should be a capacitor set for the WM7. I had 3 or 4 of them, also tried a few of autoreversers and they all had the humming of the Motor on the headphones. This is almost 15 years ago and i still got a humming WM7 that i Never used in this time, because of the humming. I changed 2 Cs now, and i got the feeling that it is a Little Bit better now, but i‘m still Not satisfied with it.
WM-AF605/BF605 There is a hum/whine when the motor is running. (belt is removed). I can hear radio some out of left side, but not much on right side. After replacing all the SM caps, I still have the same hum/whine in the headphones, and the right channel is still almost inaudible. I used caps from digikey recommended by another stereo2go user from "the list'. It sounds about the same as before i changed the caps. Wonder if it could be coming from something else in the unit? Motor? Can these be sourced out? I;ve included a pic of the caps i got from digikey. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated. Even if it's just saying not to bother trying anymore with this unit. It was my late brothers who had bought it new. The clutch seems fine, one of the take up spools pops out (i have to glue it). I put a tape in and advanced the tape with a pencil and could hear some "music". I'd like to get this unit working because i don't have a tape deck and for sentimental reasons. Thank you stereo2go users.
I found that for Aiwa HS PX303 needs 6V 470uF capacitors. I can't find so small capacitors. I found those UMW that are 4V only. Can I use them? What can I use instead?
I checked on Farnell (I'm in Europe) and there are Rubycon miniaturized capacitor 6.3V 470uF (ZLH series) - they are available for pre-order only though. Otherwise Nichicon UVZ series, same size of Rubycon (6.3 x 11 mm diameter x height). Not sure if they fit in the AIWA, but they are currently the smaller available for the rated capacity.
So I actually finished all 3 videos; I’ll watch the added video later. The hot air gun is used for getting heat under certain components, with a flux pin, on a surface mounted board.
I am interested in upgrading a couple of walkmans with audio grade capacitors, but from what I have seen at the major distributors (Farnell, Digikey, TME, Mouser), those small footprint ones seem to have been discontinued. If I search for a 220μF for example, the smallest I could find had a 10V rating so way too big for my needs. Does anyone know where audio grade capacitors of these sizes can be found ? Or if they are even made anymore ? I am interested in through hole 220μF, 100μF, 47μF, 22μF, 10μF with height no higher than 5mm or 5.2mm.
There is no problem with laying caps on the side if there is enough space to do so without the capacitor touching moving mechanical parts. But usually there's not enough space to put caps on the side or larger ones than the original. This is especially true on the slim walkmans. On something like the AF605/BF605 mentioned in post #27 I would simply use SMD tantalums instead as they're much more readily available, have better specs and will last for the lifetime of the device. The only disadvantage of tantalums is higher cost, but given the small number of caps in this particular design, cost isn't a concern. There are another 4 electrolytics (laid on one side) that are not marked on the AF605/BF605 picture which also need replacement. For those THT ones can be used instead. See picture attached for reference.
So, what are these 4 Rectangle Caps (SMD Elec.) I have uploaded . Do you have Part# or use Through hole? Size? Or part#'s? I have 3 WM-190's that all caps need replacement! What is the name they use for this style? Thanks again for your help! -Duane
As I mentioned already, I use small THT capacitors (4 x 7mm or smaller) instead. Don't have a part number for the rectangular ones and I think this type of capacitors are no longer manufactured. Just use normal THT ones and bend the legs so they match the original. Pay attention you do need THT as these have an insulator, electrolytic SMD ones with metal case won't work they can cause a short on the PCB. SMD tantalums are another alternative.
A large number of the through-hole caps you recommended are ONLY RATED FOR 4 VOLTS!! This is NOT acceptable.
Curious who said about the voltages is I read this entire thread and only found one mention of somebody saying 35 volts inside of a Walkman. I have no idea what voltages are for the capacitors inside of walkman's. Cuz you better explain yourself with the voltages of capacitors inside of what walkmans, I'd appreciate it
