So... the first picture, the Sony. Reported fault is low volume. Two standard caps, and I'm not sure what else is in there. Not sure what to put on the shopping list for this one. A little bit awkward to take apart, but not major. Fortunately, the control daughter board was two solder joints and another thicker one for the ground. Then the usual ribbon cable and it mostly came out. This will be put back together pending the component shopping list.
Guess what? See those grey boxes on the Sony? They're usually electrolytics! You can side mount the smallest SMD caps.
3 of 5 - The HS-RX610 looks to be a copy of the P505 as far as capacitors and soldering is concerned. Slightly different screw points, and there's the two fat caps at the top right - 200 4v, but appear to be thru hole rather than surface mount. I wonder why? Which came first, the P505 or the RX610?
4 out of 5 - one more to go. This is the HS-PS610 - a sod to get off. Six solder joints at the top left, and four at the bottom-mid right. Fortunately, not much in the way of capacitors - three 220 4v and another one at the top right, under a black piece of tape labelled something that I can't read, but I think it's a 4V cap.
The last one is the PX557 - an amsolute pain in the rear end. So many points had to be de-soldered before the board would come off, and I had to work it to find out which ones, as they weren't listed in the service manual. I seriously have my doubts as to whether this is going to work once I put it back together again. Sheesh.
So, they must have upped the capacitor then. I wonder if I'd have anything to gain by changing the caps in the P505 to thru-hole? I've got to admit that the two caps in that position had leaked badly on both the P505 units I have.
OK - so in summary... - The Sony has a 220 4V, the others I've never encountered before. Plus a small one saying "10 16S 5A2" - PL55 has some 220 4v mostly, which I have. Don't know why some are larger, and if that makes a difference; mine say h2P. I also have some 220 at 6.3v as well if that helps. I have some 100 6.3v, so those will probably do for the 100 4v, but the small one I can't identify - it looks like it says 43 47 4v - but I can't be sure about that last character. - HS-RX610 - I've got the caps needed, the 100 will reach me in June. - HS-PS610 has three 220 at 4V whch I have, but that small cap at the top right, I can't identify because I can't read the numbers from it. However, if I read the service manual correctly, it might be a 47 at 4V - However ... it's listed as a "chip elect" rather than just an "elect" so I'm not sure what that means. - PX557 more 220 4V, no problem, but again another small one that I can't identify. It seems to read "U1 47 4V"
You can always substitute through hole for SMD and vice versa- bend legs to fit! This way you can save money, for example, by just buying a lot of cheap Panasonic Through Holes for example. Or in you're in a a pinch. Historically SMD Caps leak more than through holes, possibly due to being new and introducing wave soldering in the late 80s, but modern caps should have the problems worked out by now. The model/identifying label on caps do not matter- just the uf value and voltage. But you do not need to worry about voltage- any cap of this value and size will be suitable (no low voltage caps available today, and higher voltage replacement is always ok) Chip elect just means it's SMD. PX557: 47uf. Aiwa Service manuals are not really worth buying unless you're troubleshooting a specific problem that needs a schematic/board view. Unlike Sony manuals, not many tell you how to take it apart.
Cool. So the only extra caps I need for the Aiwas are 47 at 4V... that only leaves the Sony. I think it's listed as 10uF 20% at 16V !!! - and then there's the ceramics which seem to be all over the place. I did actually get the service manual for this unit, and it's in the service manuals - http://stereo2go.com/service/index.php#SONY
Look up my caps list, where there are numbers of cap values I recommend, take that, and x2-3 for the small (47uf and below) values. That should last you for along time for random unexpected small values. The SMD 10uf caps should fit, soldered sideways. You need to bend the legs down with tweezers ever so carefully. I'll add my collection of manuals to the repository when I get the time to do so!
OK - I tried to find the caps needed on Mousers web site. I went slightly bonkers, so I e-mailed them with what I needed, and pictures, and they came back with, "Unfortunately as a Commercial off the shelf (COTS) Distributor we are not able to identify the parts with the details you have provided." ... so I guess I'll take a break and go look somewhere else.
I've mentioned a few times already- it's a waste of time to mail/call them for Walkman specific parts. Mouser/element14/digikey have all the caps you will ever need for any Walkman- you just have to search for the caps yourself. These are very common cap sizes and values, you should have no trouble finding them on one of these sites.
OK - so I've had another battle with the capacitor selector thing, and I ran off a previous order to find out the kind of capacitor I was looking for. I have this for the 47uF - https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UZR0G470MCL1GB?qs=huzeVNXgovWvkHr7yF14Pw== This for the 10uF 16V - https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UZR1C100MCL1GB?qs=F6FIpiMdEVZMbe%2b5ss%2bgvA== As for the other caps on the Sony board... I haven't got a clue. But even at 100 units of each, I'm facing £12 delivery charge unless I buy something else to bring the price down.
Not bad, diameter is good and the length is very short. but they are non stocked models. This is what I found in 15 mins: Try these: https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDet...=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22cS6GEbW2ftobVS5ifxWvtQ= https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDet...=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22cS6GEbW2ftoW3TcTsglH7w= https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDet...GAEpiMZZMvwFf0viD3Y3Xe9KBDOhtHVx9PsH%2bdqGWk= https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDet...=sGAEpiMZZMvwFf0viD3Y3SJiQIEfwOeudfOUutdDZHU= For your Sony: https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDet...MVA630ADA2R2MD55G?qs=8LsMxZbc/VeR1MWNLLxxJw== https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDet...=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22UwfiDRpgNhyn/UtFbKAR4A= https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDet...=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22UwfiDRpgNhy3fiHPGWizbo= It seems like they have a near full range of the MVA/MVE series caps. I will get from that range ion possible, they are very good.
Which of the two would you go for, Panasonic or the Chemi-con, and why? I'm just not used to searching and ordering for components when I'm just a beginner at these things. There's a lot of history that I just don't know.
