Personally I'd try a heat gun first, I've got a slightly different version of this Steinel where you can dial in the temperature on the back LED. Most 3D filaments should melt between 130 F - 240 F. If I remember correctly, they should have a glass-transition temperature, where the plastic start curling and then they have a melting temp. Somewhere between the to should be perfect. We used to flame polish acrylic back in the shop, the rough saw cut edges were exposed to an open flame which makes them nice and shiny, I don't think that would work with lower melting temp plastics.
I was trying to find something cool to print outside of the multiboard wall and shelves project that's taking some time to do and found a Lightbox Generator on Makerworld.com. This one is fun, I made this box, it's about 20 cm x 20 cm x 5 cm (8" x 8") and it's made kind of translucent so I can put LEDs on the inside, I just don't have any yet. The front cover is removeable once the lights are installed it will be easy to change batteries or bulbs. The photo is picking up white glare from my light, that's why there's white specs. I got the drawing from one of the newspaper ads I posted, cleaned up some of the writing and newspaper artifacts. Now it's time for a Walkman!
Still messing around, I've always loved signs so this is a lot of fun for me. I'm moving stuff around for my office display so I don't have a good photo area right now. The National Logo turned out ok, after some research I need to add more cleaning time to the filiment so it doesn't get the white-washed effect. The Walkman was from an ad that had more detail but I ran it through a free online conversion tool, this was the most delicate version, the other version had chunky black lines that might have been ok but the Sony and Walkman Words were hard to read. The box can open with either a thick or thin top, I went thin thinking the lights would be mounted in the back. The right box shows the thickness, around 1-3/4." The black edge can be changed to any color but I like the border. I was thinking about just making covers but I haven't found a way to pick the dimensions yet in the program, they're coming out similar but not the same.
MrX,Nice Panasonic logo! I still haven’t bought my Prusa Core One Plus yet, but I plan to get it for next school year to use in the classroom. Sincerely, Richard P.S. I’ve never had any issues with Tinkercad—I’ve had an account with them for years.
So I did have one issue with the Bambu P1S AMS Unit, the optional box that hold four roles of filiment. It automatically changes the filiments for you instead of using the single roll bracket attached to the printer and doing it manually. I was getting blinking lights on the feed units, did a little research which said clean out all the little tubes. There were tiny pieces of broken filiment in the tubes but I also noticed that a plastic bracket at the end of the feeder was broken in 1/2. Luckily it has two screws holding it in so it's working now but when I looked into that, Bambu doesn't sell just the tiny bracket, you have to buy the control board it's screwed into at $50 USD. Apparently this is a growing issue, the AMS Replacement Part is "Sold Out" and the issue is popping up on forums. Luckily someone made a print file to make your own but it's kind of a big fail for Bambu.
My newest project, for other people, is these macaron clickers. It's three pieces and they use keyboard switches, yep get on Amazon and order a box of switches for cheap, then snap them in place and boom, now you have a clicker. People love these things, the click is very satisfying.
That is so little cash to buy one! It's tempting even to me! My Philips D8614 has finally failed & needs reparing - I think it's a bit beyond my capability to fix sadly!
They are really fun and the way they layer the plastic is ground breaking. I made a fidget spinner with three rows of sprockets, it can make them with no assembly but there are tiny supports that break off when you first spin everything. Doing something with different colors is pretty easy (but it might take much longer). The clickers above are easy, two different print "plates" one for each color, that way goes the fastest. There's makers now that have figured out how to print pictures on the sides of prints or you can send a photo to a website and it will make it 3d using AI. If you have time it's very rewarding, unfortunately I don't have time to sit and measure out parts yet to duplicate missing knobs and dials but I figure once you learn the CAD you can crank them out pretty easily.
