Hello and welcome to the forum

The JX505 was my first real encounter with an AIWA that had bad capacitors a few years ago, and since then I have gone on to repair many different models. 99€ is a good price for an example with nearly all the accessories. Is this one of the early models with the bi-azimuth head or a later one with the fixed head? I have two JX505, both early versions with the bi-azimuth head.

http://REPLACEMENT ERROR/tags/tag/224215475244401376

You can see my repair of the JX505 here. I let a wet paste of sodium bicarbonate (bicarbonate of soda, baking soda) sit on the PCB once the capacitors were removed before fitting on the new capacitors. Alcohol will not clean off the leaked residue.

index.php?board_oid=193392314111653483&content_oid=193392314111913109

Also for some tips on capacitor replacement, see this thread here.

index.php?board_oid=193392314111653483&content_oid=217178235650847317

I would recommend using a higher value than a lesser value where capacitors are concerned if exact values cannot be found.

Read plop's threads- they taught me a lot.

I cleaned mine with baking soda as well, and mild dish washing liquid.

Good luck on the re-capping- if this is your first time re-capping a walkman, practice on a less valuable unit with through-hole caps first.

Hi,

Thanks for the replies.

I have read through Plop's threads, not only because my 505 needs recapping but also because I think I will do this job more often in future times.

What I have here:

Baking Soda

Distilled water

Toothbrush

compressed air unit

hair dryer

adjustable soldering/de-soldering station with mounted hot air canon,

was used for BGA and other IC work.

Flux and de-solder wire (copper braiding)

Must do the job I guess...

still, only problem seems to be the 220uF (or higher rated) caps but I'm in no hurry, I'll keep searching...

You seem suitably prepared to perform the repair. Might as well throw in an ESR and capacitance meter with all that too. Not all capacitors are a lost cause.

I am surprised that you are having such difficulty tracking down the 220uF 4V. It is a relatively straight forward part to locate.

Have you tried Digi-Key for the 220uF?

http://www.digikey.com/product...KS221/P954-ND/160534

They aren't the cheapest, but they do have the widest range of capacitors on the internet.

Alternatively there is Farnell / Element 14

http://uk.farnell.com/panasoni...-4v-220uf/dp/1901984

And finally Mouser

http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDe...OVFMGRfW4O15NIZ9o%3d

Hi Plop,

Disadvantage is that I'm living in Holland and the shipping costs are quite high; $30 minimum for a few dollars of capacitors. I'm first trying to get my hands on a few

220uF 's with the help of a local electronics store; they have the 47 and 100 in stock (with the right 6mm height) but only 200uF instead of 220uF and not higher (only in 8mm height).

And (unfortunately) this 505 is the one with the fixed head. My stolen one had the Bi-azimuth head; bought that one 2 weeks after it came on the market.

If you order from Farnell NL then the charge is 5€ for orders up to 50€, which is cheaper than me ordering from Farnell UK who charge £5.95 GBP

http://nl.farnell.com/panasoni...-4v-220uf/dp/1901984

My fixed head JX505 has good azimuth and sounds great, so maybe yours could as well. (I do have a spare bi-azimuth head from a junk unit, but condition is not as good.) You could transplant a bi-azimuth head from a different machine and tune up the azimuth later.

Maybe do a large order of caps across a wide range of common Walkman values to make the shipping worth it. Surface-mount caps could also be installed through hole, you can consider that as well. My JX505 has surface mount caps installed with height to spare.

It would have to be another JX505, as the directional switch plate  (part where the adjustment screws and springs are located) is unique to that model.

I've tried to implement that mod on a PX505 and since discovered that.

Ah. I thought you could transplant the screws as well.

Stupid of me, didn't know Farnell got a site in the Netherlands.

BTW: anyone know which caps are present in the HS-J202?

I guess that one needs a recap too.

I haven't received it yet but this way I can order the caps in advance.

Have a look here for the service manual for the J202. It should give you a list of all the electrolytic caps.

index.php?board_oid=193392314111653483&content_oid=263906035089896803

Nope, the design of the pressure plate is different enough to prevent retro-engineering on the two ie no screw holes and nothing to pressure the tension against! There is also another potential gotcha as well. Some of the later fixed head units have riveted parts (needed to track the direction of the switching plate) in diferent locations on the tape transport chassis to prevent interchanging of the parts further. Unlikely to be an issue between a bi-azimuth JX505 and a fixed head JX505 with a simple part swap, but definitely a speed bump for near similar parts on other models.

Thanks again Plop!

It seems I have much to learn about the search option on this forum and Google!

If I interpreted the service manual correctly, than these caps is all I need:

HS-J202 caps

1x 100uF, 2v
2x 220uF, 2v

7x 220uF, 4v
1x 100uF, 4v
3x  47uF, 4v

1x  22uF, 6v

It's quite loaded with electrolytic caps...

Yes, there's quite a few isn't there

Still doesn't quite beat the J505 with 16, but 15 is still a big count.

Although it is not clear from the inventory, you will also need to confirm which are surface mount and which are through hole. Cross referencing the location of the solder pads in relation to the PCB layout diagram should confirm this.

Plop wrote the book on Aiwa capacitors!

Gosh you are too kind with that compliment.

It is only knowledge that I have read up on and experienced through repairing so many of the blighted things!

Hi Porto,

your story is horrible , when you remember the retail price of a JX505 and you were only a student.... I'm glad you found a replacement one although that's not your lovely old one.You should replace all the caps ,don't trust any old caps as i did with my JX303 ,i did replaced only the faulty ones , it then worked fine but as a result the board with time came all covered with acid.... the only one here we seem to leave is that one in the tuner board ,and hopefully we don't need to change it because i've not find any replacement. If you wash the board i strongly recommend to remove the volume pot , mine was fine (on my JX303) and died after wash... And those pot are hard to find ,unless you buy another unit and you don't know in what condition they are before you receive it...

Hi all,

I was very busy the last two months, so I haven't done anything yet about this JX505.

Now, at last, I have much time to spare again and done some shopping at Farnell's for the right caps and some other stuff I need.

Cosmos99: I'll keep it in mind about that volumeknob, thanks for the advice.

Hi all,

I'm preparing the pcb for installing new caps but the acid has done more damage than I initially thought:




I'm not sure where the red dots are to be connected to on the next picture:




Can someone verify the pointed connections?

The board is a little mess in close-up, I hope I can repair

those damaged solder islands and eventually get the

505 working again.

This is mine after I cleaned it up.

Link to larger picture

The two on the right are SMD resistors. Careful re-tinning of them should see them right. The pads for the capacitor on the left looks like it has some of the oxidised solder and burnt flux yet to be removed.

Hi Plop,

Thanks for the pictures, it's more clearly now to see where the traces are going to.

I have cleaned the pcb again and you're right, there was still some old flux and oxidation left on the board; it don't look too bad now I guess.

BTW: I already bought the right caps at Digikey, along with quite some other stuff I need for other repair projects.

I finally soldered the new caps on the board,then soldered back the tiny flatcables, checked that all (acid touched) paths were connected the right way, carefully put the Aiwa back together while cleaning it thouroughly with IPA, rechecked the assembly and tried some tapes:

The sound has drastically improved!

Volume works great without crackling, no mechanism sound when starting/playing a tape, no more mono output but stereo, no high pitch sound anymore when enabling DolbyNR, DSL now gives a quite deep and pure bass which is very noticable... just everything is working as it should be! For just around 100 euro's I'm a happy fellow!

Two things left: backup battery and main battery are totally dead but it plays fine with the AA battery holder.

Well done !

That's another JX505 saved from the rubbish tip.

The backup battery is hidden in the door, and I am presuming when you ordered the capacitors from Digi-Key you also happened to put one into the shopping cart too. It isn't 100% essential to have, but can mean that it is less irritating to have to keep setting the time and radio presets.

If your sealed lead battery measures >~1V, then it may be possible to revive it via the desk charger. I have managed to revive two PB-4 and one PB-4S this way. I did have to leave it on the desk charger for many hours and monitor the voltage to see if it was increasing. If it is close to 0V or the polarity is reversed (I actually have one that is reversed!) then you can forget wasting your electricity to revive it.

You can order memory backup thur digikey, or eBay, they still sell them, the memory battery is in the cassette door, solder on the tuner board